Xiamen with Kids
One of the easiest seaside cities in China to travel with children

This is the highlight of a kids' trip to Xiamen — a small island across from downtown where no cars are allowed anywhere, so children can wander freely with no traffic to worry about. The whole island is full of old pastel colonial villas, pretty lanes to explore, little sandy coves and the sound of piano drifting by (it's nicknamed "Piano Island"). Kids are excited from the ferry ride alone. Give it a whole day, go slow, and stop for ice cream and snacks.

Who knew a China trip could include an easy beach day — Baicheng Beach (白城沙滩) is a free sandy beach by the gate of Xiamen University where kids can dig, build castles and paddle in the shallows. Right beside it runs Huandao Road (环岛路), a long seafront where you can rent bikes and cycle in the breeze, with a giant red sandstone sign reading "Xiamen" for photos and views across the water to Kinmen Island. It's a relaxed afternoon after a busy morning.

It's free with your normal ticket, yet kids talk about it all trip — Xiamen Metro Line 1 has a stretch where the track runs elevated, out over the water, as it leaves the island toward Jimei and Xiamen North railway station. You look out at the sea on both sides, just like a sky train, and children love standing at the window watching it. The ride alone is an activity, and it pairs neatly with a day out to Jimei or the Botanical Garden. Children under 1.2 m ride free.

For a day when you want kids running around in the shade — the Xiamen Botanical Garden (also called the Wanshi, or "ten-thousand rocks", garden) is a forest park spread over a hill of huge boulders in the middle of the city. The bit kids love is the desert and giant-cactus zone, which photographs like somewhere far more exotic, plus a rainforest section where mist is sometimes pumped out into an artificial cloud. There are ponds, shady paths and big rocks to scramble on (carefully). It's an easy half-day with great photos.

An old seafront fort that's more fun for kids than it sounds — Hulishan Fortress dates from the late Qing dynasty, and its star is a giant German Krupp cannon nearly 14 metres long that Guinness recognises as the largest surviving 19th-century coastal cannon still in its original spot. What kids love most is the show of Qing soldiers in full costume demonstrating a cannon firing, twice a day at about 10:00 and 16:00. There's a museum of old weapons and sea views toward Kinmen, and it sits right by the university and Baicheng Beach, so you can roll it into one day.

It pairs perfectly with the over-sea metro ride — Jimei School Village was built by the philanthropist Tan Kah Kee (Chen Jiageng), and its buildings have a striking blend of Chinese and Western styles with sweeping curved roofs that's lovely to photograph along the water. The bit kids enjoy is the Turtle Garden (鳌园), with its ponds and animal carvings to look at. It's a calm, easy place to stroll with children after the excitement of riding the metro out over the sea.

A zone where kids graze happily — Xiamen University is said to be the prettiest seaside campus in China, with Chinese-Western buildings, a lake and big shady trees (entry is by timed registration, so check before you go). Right beside it is Zengcuoan village (曾厝垵), an old fishing hamlet turned into lanes packed with street snacks — ice cream, fresh fruit juice, fish balls, sweets. Kids love wandering and choosing one thing at a time.

An ancient hillside temple that works for kids too — Nanputuo Temple sits right beside Xiamen University, and in front of it are lotus ponds with fish and turtles that kids love to watch. The temple has pretty Chinese pavilions and a short stair-climb up the hill that takes only a few minutes and opens up a wide view over the city and sea. It's a calm stop that doesn't ask for a long walk; go in the morning before the heat. It rolls neatly into the same day as the university and Zengcuoan.

On a rainy day or a warm evening, this street is the answer — Zhongshan Road pedestrian street is an old downtown street lined with qilou (骑楼) arcade buildings whose overhanging roofs cover the walkway, so you can browse and eat sheltered from sun and rain. It's full of Minnan street snacks, ice cream, fruit juice and treats kids love, with toy and souvenir shops to choose from. The far end reaches the waterfront with views over to Gulangyu — an easy stroll the whole family can enjoy.

The best news for families is that Xiamen (Minnan) food is mild and not spicy, so kids eat almost everything easily. Dishes kids tend to like are satay noodles (沙茶面), with a fragrant, lightly rich, non-spicy broth; oyster omelette (海蛎煎), soft egg with oysters; fish balls, clear soups, congee and dim sum that little ones manage well. Xiamen also has fresh seafood for the grown-ups, mall restaurants with the occasional high chair, and convenience stores stocked with milk and snacks. Buy bottled or boiled water and don't drink the tap water.