Ride Metro Line 1 out over the sea from Xiamen Island, about 30 minutes, and you reach the school town that Tan Kah Kee (Chen Jiageng) built more than a century ago — Chinese roofs on Western bodies, a seaside Turtle Garden with 600-odd stone carvings, and a Dragon Boat Pool that mirrors a whole row of old buildings.
Picture this: you board the metro in the centre of Xiamen Island, and after a while the track lifts up and runs straight out over the sea, the windows filling with open water and a long bridge. Then you step off at a station with a curious name — Jimei School Village (集美学村) — and a few minutes' walk away stands a row of old school buildings, their roofs distinctly Chinese with upturned ends, yet the bodies below them all stone columns and arched windows in a European style. This whole place is not an ordinary old quarter; it is a school town that one man built for his own hometown with money he earned far overseas.
Jimei School Village means, literally, "Jimei school town" — a cluster of educational institutions that Tan Kah Kee, known in Mandarin as Chen Jiageng (陈嘉庚), an overseas Chinese who grew rich on rubber in Malaya, began building in 1913. From one small school it grew into primary and secondary schools, a teachers' college, a maritime school, and eventually a university. Today it is still home to Jimei University and other institutions, with real students walking around — not a museum that has died.
Three things bring people here: the "Jiageng" architecture itself, which is hard to see anywhere else; the seaside Turtle Garden (鳌园), which gathers the stone carvings, the monument and Tan Kah Kee's own tomb; and the calm air around the Dragon Boat Pool (龙舟池), where old buildings mirror in the water. It all sits far from the bustle of the island's tourist quarters, which makes it ideal for a slow half-day with a story behind every building.
From the "Western buildings in Chinese hats" to the seaside Turtle Garden and the Dragon Boat Pool — know these before you go so you don't miss the key spots.
Jimei's signature is the building style Tan Kah Kee devised himself: Minnan-style Chinese tiled roofs, with the ridge ends curving up like swallowtails, set on top of Western-style bodies of granite and red brick. People in China affectionately call them "Western buildings wearing Chinese hats". Walk the streets of the town and you pass lecture halls, assembly halls and dormitory blocks built this way. The ones people love to photograph most are the buildings along the Dragon Boat Pool and the tall hall you can spot from a distance.
The heart of a Jimei visit. The Turtle Garden, or Ao Yuan, is a seaside garden that Tan Kah Kee designed and supervised himself in his later years, from 1950 until it was finished around 1961. The "turtle" name comes from the shell-like shape of the headland reaching into the sea. Inside, a corridor has walls carved with more than 600 stone reliefs of Chinese history, legend and daily life, and the central plaza holds the Jimei Liberation Monument (集美解放纪念碑), a stone column about 28 metres high. Walking among the fine carvings with the sound of the waves beside you is a real pleasure.
Tan Kah Kee died in 1961 and is buried in the very garden he built. The tomb is designed as a half-circle resembling a turtle's shell, ringed by carved stone panels that tell the story of his life and good works. It is a place many Chinese visitors come to pay their respects, honouring him as a major educator and philanthropist. Pass by it and you understand why the whole town was built with such purpose — it was the legacy he wanted to leave for the generations to come.
Near the Turtle Garden, the Tan Kah Kee Memorial Hall tells the story of his life: leaving home to work abroad, building the rubber business, then returning to pour his fortune into schools. There are belongings, photographs and documents on display, along with his former residence, kept in a strikingly modest state given how wealthy he was. The Turtle Garden ticket usually includes this section, and you can walk straight through. Anyone interested in modern Chinese history will get a lot out of it.
A broad pool in the middle of town that Tan Kah Kee built for dragon-boat racing. One edge is lined with pavilions and Jiageng-style buildings that reflect in the water, making it a popular photo spot, especially in the soft light of late afternoon. Strolling around the pool is free. At certain times of year — particularly the Dragon Boat Festival around June — it still hosts real dragon-boat races in the traditional way. Time it right and you catch a lively scene that no still photo can give you.
Tan Kah Kee (Chen Jiageng) was born in Jimei in 1874 and left home as a teenager to work with family in Singapore, gradually building his own business until he became one of the biggest rubber and pineapple magnates in Malaya. But what kept his name alive is that he did not hoard the wealth — he believed that "education is the foundation for saving the nation", and poured enormous sums back into building schools in his hometown.
Starting with a small school in 1913, he kept expanding it into a whole school town, and in 1921 he founded Xiamen University with his own money. It is said that in years when the business lost money he still sold off assets to keep the schools running. That level of commitment is exactly why he is so revered in China to this day.
Tan Kah Kee spent much of his life overseas and saw plenty of Western architecture, but his heart stayed Chinese. So he devised a style that took the strength and practicality of Western buildings — stone columns, arched verandahs, airy halls — and combined it with Chinese-style roofs that spoke of his roots. The result is the Jiageng architecture that became a signature of both Jimei and Xiamen University.
If you have already walked Xiamen University on the island, you will notice many buildings there speak the same language. Coming to Jimei is like seeing the "original" of a style that spread across the city, which is why people who love architecture often pair the two in a single trip.
The thing that makes a trip to Jimei more fun than you'd expect is the journey itself. Xiamen's Metro Line 1 has a stretch where the track lifts up and runs out over the sea between the island and the Jimei mainland, about 2.8 km long. Take a window seat and you get wide sea views and a sea-crossing bridge, free with your ride. Some people go to Jimei partly just to ride this stretch — it is one of the few city metro lines in China that gives you this feeling.
A small tip: sit on one side on the way out and switch to the other side on the way back, so you catch the sea on both sides. And if you can choose your timing, late afternoon into evening gives softer, prettier light than the harsh midday sun.
The good news is that Xiamen has a metro, and Jimei is one of the easiest attractions to reach by it. The way to go is Metro Line 1, getting off at Jimei School Village station (集美学村站), which is named directly after the attraction. It is a few minutes' walk from the station into the school town. Pay your fare by scanning Alipay/WeChat, or buy a single-journey ticket from the machine.
Seen the original Jiageng architecture at Jimei? Cross over to the seaside version on the island, plus other stops for the same trip.