The Terracotta Army and Mount Li
Eight thousand clay soldiers underground · an emperor's hot springs · the day trip that explains why this city matters to all of China
Leave your hotel early and aim to reach the Terracotta Army at the 08:30 opening — this is the one iron rule of the day. Going early means you beat the tour groups that pour in mid-morning. Start in Pit 1, the largest: more than 6,000 warriors stand in formation as far as you can see, and no two faces are alike. Then visit Pit 3 (the command post) and Pit 2 before finishing at the bronze chariots hall.
Two and a half to three hours here is about right. An audio guide or a guide hired at the entrance is well worth it — the on-site signage is limited and the story makes the place. Read the full breakdown in our Terracotta Army guide.
On the way back into the city, the 游5(306) bus passes Huaqing Palace — hop off and visit. These imperial hot springs at the foot of Mount Li were the setting for the famous romance between Tang Emperor Xuanzong and Yang Guifei, one of China's four legendary beauties. Wander the ancient bathing pools, gardens and lake; allow about 90 minutes.
This is also where the 1936 "Xi'an Incident" took place, a turning point in modern Chinese history. In summer and early autumn there's an evening outdoor show, Song of Everlasting Sorrow, staged against the real mountainside — but on a packed three-day plan, a daytime visit and an early return to the city works best. See the Huaqing Palace guide.
Back in the old city by early evening, take it easy — tomorrow is a full day on foot inside the walls. For the first night, keep dinner simple near your hotel. Try a roujiamo (肉夹馍), the "Chinese hamburger", or biangbiang noodles cut as wide as a belt, both ¥10–25 a bowl. Then take a slow stroll around the Bell Tower, which is beautifully lit after dark.
