The plan, stop by stop — with getting-around tips
Start the day at Elephant Trunk Hill (象鼻山, Xiangbishan) — a limestone hill whose lower flank arches down into the Li River like an elephant lowering its trunk to drink. The gap under the arch is called Water Moon Cave (水月洞), and the whole scene is the postcard image and the recognised symbol of Guilin. Come in the morning, when the light is soft and the crowds are thin, and you can photograph it in peace before the city wakes up.
After your Elephant Trunk Hill photos, walk the banks of the Li River and the downtown lakes of the Two Rivers Four Lakes system — shady trees, little gardens, and limestone peaks for a backdrop. It's the best way to warm up and get a feel for the city (and you'll see these same lakes again in their illuminated, night-time version later on).
Choose one of the two to suit your style — they're on opposite sides of town, so it's one or the other in a single day. Reed Flute Cave, out to the northwest, is a large stalactite-and-stalagmite cave lit in colourful floodlights until it looks like an underground palace; the walking route takes about 40 to 50 minutes, and entry is around ¥90. It's great for cave lovers and for a hot day, since the cave stays cool inside.
Or, if you're travelling with children, pick Seven Star Park (七星公园) east of the Li River instead — a big public park with Camel Hill (骆驼山), Seven Star Cave and a small giant-panda zoo that kids love. Park entry is around ¥75 (the cave is extra), and it's an easy place to spend a morning wandering.
Lunch has to be the city's signature dish — Guilin rice noodles (桂林米粉, Guilin mifen): round rice noodles tossed with a secret braising sauce (卤水, lushui) simmered from spices, topped with crisp pork, fried peanuts and pickled vegetables. Locals eat them almost daily, often for breakfast. The way to do it is to toss everything together first, then add chilli and pickled long beans to taste. A bowl is only ¥10 to ¥20 — great value and genuinely good.
Good shops are all over the city, especially around the Zhengyang pedestrian street and the centre. For which spots stand out, and what other local dishes are worth trying, read the Guilin food guide.
The afternoon gives you two options. If you've still got the energy to climb, Fubo Hill (伏波山) is a rocky knoll on the Li River in the middle of town; a few hundred steps up rewards you with a panorama of the river, the limestone peaks ringing the city, and the rooftops of the old town — the spot that shows you exactly why Guilin is famous for its scenery. At the base there's also a Thousand-Buddha cave and an ancient bell to see. Small entry fee.
The easy alternative: if you'd rather rest your legs, stroll the Zhengyang pedestrian street (正阳步行街) in the centre instead — an old street lined with shops, souvenirs, snack stalls and noodle joints, perfect for an unhurried wander and picking up gifts. It sits right by the lakes you'll cruise this evening, so the two link up on foot.
Close the day with Guilin at its prettiest after dark — the Two Rivers Four Lakes cruise (两江四湖), a waterway linking the Li River, the Taohua River and four downtown lakes (Shan, Rong, Gui and Mulong). The boat glides past lit bridges in a mix of styles, willows along the banks, and small performances on the way, over about 90 minutes, drifting through a city turned into a mirror of lights.
The highlight is the Sun-Moon Pagodas (日月双塔), a pair of pagodas on Shan Lake — one clad in golden copper, the other in silver — floodlit and reflected beautifully in the water. The cruise costs roughly ¥185 to ¥215 per person, with several departures through the evening. On a tight budget: walking the Shan Lake shore to see the twin pagodas from the bank is lovely and free — you can get the photo without boarding a boat.
- The Li River cruise to Yangshuo — Guilin's most legendary, most beautiful stretch, but it takes 4 to 5 hours and ends in Yangshuo. Allow at least two days; see the 2-day plan.
- The Longji rice terraces (龙脊梯田) — about two hours north and nearly a full day there and back. Save it for the 3-day plan.
- Yangshuo, West Street and the Yulong River — the world of limestone peaks, cycling and bamboo rafts is out of town and needs an overnight.
- Both Reed Flute Cave and Seven Star Park in one day — they're on opposite sides of town; pick one, or you'll lose too much time in transit.