Yangshuo Beer Fish (啤酒鱼) — Li River Carp Braised in Beer, Scales and All

Q: How much does beer fish cost, and how is it priced?

Most restaurants price it by the weight of the fish (weighed fresh). A serving usually runs ¥68–128 (about ฿340–640) depending on size. A larger or premium Li River carp may be charged per catty (about 500 g) at ¥98–148. One fish comfortably feeds 2–3 people because it comes with plenty of sauce, and it pairs perfectly with steamed rice. Always confirm the weight and total price before ordering — many places keep live fish in a tank, so you can point at the one you want and watch it weighed.

Q: How do you pay at Yangshuo beer fish restaurants, and is English OK?

Most places take WeChat Pay and Alipay first; some accept cash in yuan, but almost none take foreign credit cards. It helps to link a Visa or Mastercard to Alipay or WeChat before you travel. Yangshuo is a tourist town, so many restaurants on West Street have picture menus and staff with some English. The easiest order is simply to say "啤酒鱼" (pí jiǔ yú) and point at the size of fish you want — and the town's signature dish is on its way.

Before you eat

啤酒鱼 — why this dish belongs to Yangshuo, not Guilin city

First, let's get the geography straight — beer fish (啤酒鱼) is not a Guilin-city dish. It belongs to Yangshuo (阳朔), a small riverside town about 65 km south of Guilin city, roughly a 1.5-hour drive. Most people cruise down the Li River or take a bus to spend a day in Yangshuo anyway, then end it with beer fish by the water — and that is exactly the right way to do it.

The dish is tied to Yangshuo because the main ingredient comes straight from here — fresh carp from the Li River (漓江), the same river that curves past the town's famous limestone peaks. Cooks keep live fish in a tank or pen by the door, weigh your pick in front of you, and cook it on the spot. That level of freshness is what sets Yangshuo's beer fish apart from versions sold in the bigger cities.

The flavour is a good introduction to Guangxi (广西) cooking — sour, sweet, savoury, beer-scented and mildly spicy from green chilli. It's not the numbing málà heat of neighbouring Sichuan, and it isn't Cantonese either; it's a home-style taste rounded out by tomato and pickled veg, the kind of thing you happily finish over a bowl of hot steamed rice.

One dish, four parts

What makes beer fish taste the way it does

It looks like a simple braised fish, but the magic hides in these four things — know them and you'll enjoy it a whole lot more.

Li River carp

漓江鲤鱼 · the star, 1–1.5 kg per fish

It all starts with carp (鲤鱼) pulled fresh from the Li River, usually 1 to 1.5 kg. The flesh is firmer and sweeter than farmed freshwater fish because it grows in the clear, flowing water of one of China's most photographed rivers. Cooks pick a live fish, weigh it at the front of the shop, and cook it right away — that freshness is exactly why the dish is anchored to Yangshuo. Carp has fine bones by nature, so eat slowly; if you'd rather avoid them, ask whether they can use boneless mandarin fish (桂鱼) instead.

Why it's good: river-raised, firm and sweet · weighed fresh at the door

Alternatives: catfish, softer-fleshed fish, or mandarin fish (桂鱼) for no bones

Yangshuo town and the limestone karst peaks along the Li River, the home of beer fish

The scales they don't scrape off

带鳞 · the crispness locals call a treat

This is what sets traditional beer fish apart from any other braised fish — the scales are left on. The cook fries the fish whole in hot oil until the scales crisp up and curl, then braises it in beer so they soften into thin, edible layers that drink up the sauce. Locals treat eating the scales as a small treat that cautious visitors usually skip — but give it a go: it's a crisp texture that plays beautifully against the tender flesh underneath.

How insiders eat it: crisp scales first → tender flesh → sauce over rice to finish

Photo note: this is the riverside town of Yangshuo (a scene-setting image, not a specific restaurant)

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A whole bottle of beer — no water

啤酒 · a malty aroma that tames the river smell

Once the skin is seared, the cook pours in a whole bottle of beer instead of water and simmers everything over medium heat until the liquid reduces into a thick sauce that soaks into the fish. The beer does three jobs — it cuts the muddy smell of river fish, lends a malty aroma, and adds a gentle sweetness that balances the soy. The yeast also helps keep the flesh tender. By the time it's reduced, the alcohol has cooked off and only the aroma and rounded flavour remain, which is exactly how the dish earns its plain-spoken name.

Why it's good: beer cuts the smell, adds malt aroma, keeps the fish tender

No worries: simmered until the alcohol cooks off — just flavour left

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Tomato, green chilli, pickled veg

番茄·青椒·酸菜 · the team that rounds out the sauce

That thick red-brown sauce isn't beer alone — it comes from tomato, garlic, green chilli, ginger and pickled vegetables (often pickled long beans or Guangxi-style pickled greens). The tomato brings a rounded tang and that glossy colour, the green chilli a mild, fragrant heat rather than a fierce one, and the pickles add a quiet sourness that stops the dish feeling heavy. It all reduces with the fish into a sauce locals half-jokingly call a "rice killer," because once you spoon it over steamed rice you can't stop.

Overall taste: sour-sweet-savoury, beer-scented, mildly spicy (not málà)

Don't forget: order extra steamed rice for the sauce — it's the highlight

About those scales: why are they edible and good? Two stages do it — frying in hot oil until the scales crisp and curl, then braising in beer until they drink in the sauce and soften. The result is a half-crisp, half-tender layer loaded with flavour. That's why Yangshuo locals treat the scales as a hidden delicacy rather than something to push aside.

Order it like a local

How to order beer fish — and what to eat with it

Pick the fish, weigh it, agree the price first

Almost every restaurant prices beer fish by the weight of the fish. Many keep live fish in a tank or pen — point at the one you want and they'll weigh it in front of you before cooking. A serving usually runs ¥68–128 (about ฿340–640) depending on size; a larger or premium fish may be charged per catty (about 500 g) at ¥98–148. Ask for the weight and the total before you commit, and there'll be no surprises when the bill comes.

One fish comfortably feeds 2–3 people because it arrives swimming in sauce. Two of you can share a smaller fish; a group of four should order a big one (or two) and add a couple of side dishes.

What to order alongside

Beer fish has a bold, saucy flavour, so it pairs best with simple, mild things — hot steamed rice is the non-negotiable partner (for that sauce), followed by a plain stir-fried green like water spinach or a seasonal leafy vegetable to cut the richness. Some places offer steamed tofu or a spring-onion omelette as light side dishes.

For more local flavour, add stir-fried river snails (炒田螺) or Lipu taro with braised pork belly (荔浦芋扣肉), both home-style Guangxi dishes that go well with it — there's more in our guide to Guilin & Guangxi home cooking. And yes, a cold beer alongside the beer fish is a very good idea.

Paying — sort it out first

Most Yangshuo beer-fish restaurants take WeChat Pay and Alipay first; some accept cash in yuan, but almost none take foreign credit cards. Link a Visa or Mastercard to Alipay or WeChat before you travel and you're set.

Yangshuo is a tourist town, so many restaurants on West Street (西街) have picture menus and staff with some English. The simplest order of all is just to say "啤酒鱼" (pí jiǔ yú) and point at the size of fish you want — and the town's signature dish is on its way.

Where to eat it in Yangshuo

Beer-fish spots — by the river and on West Street

The names visitors and locals mention most in Yangshuo, from long-running chains to the riverside tables.

Xie Sanjie Beer Fish (谢三姐啤酒鱼)

The beer-fish name people mention most · West Street area

One of the names visitors and locals bring up most often when talking about Yangshuo beer fish, with several branches around town. The fresh Li River carp is braised in beer to a bold, well-rounded flavour, with a thick sauce that's made for rice. The staff are used to travellers and there are picture menus to point at, which makes it an easy first stop if you're in Yangshuo for the first time and want this dish without any guesswork.

Where: Around West Street (西街) and central Yangshuo (several branches)
Price: Beer fish ¥68–128/fish (about ฿340–640) · feeds 2–3

Da Shifu Beer Fish (大师傅啤酒鱼)

A well-known beer-fish house · near West Street

Another beer-fish name with a following in Yangshuo ("大师傅" means master chef). Reviewers tend to praise the depth of the sauce and the freshness of the fish, and it lands on a lot of must-try lists for the town. The setting is local and unfussy rather than fancy — the focus is on getting the main dish right, the way the recipe intends.

Where: Near West Street (西街), central Yangshuo
Price: Beer fish ¥68–128/fish (about ฿340–640) · priced by weight

Riverside beer-fish restaurants on the Li River

A waterfront setting · views of the karst peaks

Half the appeal of eating beer fish in Yangshuo is the setting — many restaurants sit right along the Li River or near the boat pier. Tucking into a hot, beer-braised fish with the limestone peaks reflected in the water at dusk is an experience you simply can't get in a big city. The fish here is often especially fresh because it comes from the river out front. Look for a place with a live fish tank or pen, then grab a table by the water for sunset.

Where: Along the Li River and the Yangshuo boat pier · near West Street
Price: ¥80–150/fish (about ฿400–750) · view tables can cost a little more

Beer fish in Guilin city (if you can't reach Yangshuo)

A backup in the city · convenient but not the original

If your schedule won't stretch to Yangshuo, Guilin city has plenty of Guangxi restaurants and beer-fish spots too, especially around Zhengyang pedestrian street (正阳步行街) and the central food area. The flavour is fine, but honestly the freshness of the fish and the riverside atmosphere can't match Yangshuo. If you have even half a day, it's worth going down to eat it at the source — and there's more city snacking in our Guilin street-food guide.

Where: Around Zhengyang pedestrian street (正阳步行街) and central Guilin
Price: ¥60–120/fish (about ฿300–600)

Frequently asked

FAQ · what to know before you eat Yangshuo beer fish

What is Yangshuo beer fish (啤酒鱼), and why eat it in Yangshuo rather than Guilin city?

Yangshuo beer fish (阳朔啤酒鱼, pijiu yu) is fresh Li River carp fried with its scales on, then braised in a whole bottle of beer with tomato, garlic, green chilli and pickled vegetables. It's the signature dish of Yangshuo (阳朔), a small riverside town about 65 km south of Guilin city — roughly a 1.5-hour drive. You eat it in Yangshuo because that's where it comes from: the carp is pulled from the Li River that winds right through the town, and the best-known restaurants line the riverside and West Street (西街). Guilin city has versions too, but the freshness of the fish and the riverside setting in Yangshuo are the real thing.

Why are the scales left on the fish, and can you eat them?

Leaving the scales on is the heart of the traditional recipe. The cook takes a live carp from the Li River (around 1 to 1.5 kg), cleans it but does not scrape the scales, then fries it in hot oil until the scales crisp up and curl slightly. Once it's braised in beer, those once-hard scales soften into thin, edible layers that soak up the sauce. Locals consider eating the scales a genuine treat that many visitors are too cautious to try. The insider way to eat it is to enjoy the crisp scales first, then the tender flesh, and finally spoon the thick sauce over steamed rice.

How is beer fish cooked, and is it very spicy?

First the whole fish (scales on) is fried in hot oil to tighten the skin and start the scales crisping — this locks in freshness and stops the flesh falling apart. Then a whole bottle of beer goes in instead of water, along with tomato, garlic, green chilli, ginger and pickled vegetables (such as pickled long beans). It all simmers over medium heat until the liquid reduces into a thick sauce that soaks into the fish. The beer cuts the river-fish smell, adds a malty aroma and a gentle sweetness, while the tomato gives a rounded tang. Overall it's sour-sweet-savoury, beer-scented and mildly spicy from the green chilli — not the numbing málà heat of neighbouring Sichuan, but a softer Guangxi flavour.

How much does beer fish cost, and how is it priced?

Most restaurants price it by the weight of the fish (weighed fresh). A serving usually runs ¥68–128 (about ฿340–640) depending on size. A larger or premium Li River carp may be charged per catty (about 500 g) at ¥98–148. One fish comfortably feeds 2–3 people because it comes with plenty of sauce, and it pairs perfectly with steamed rice. Always confirm the weight and total price before ordering — many places keep live fish in a tank, so you can point at the one you want and watch it weighed.

What kind of fish is used, and are there many bones?

The classic version uses fresh carp (鲤鱼) from the Li River; some places offer catfish or a softer-fleshed fish for people who dislike bones. Li River carp is prized for firm, sweet flesh and is less bony than many freshwater fish, but it still has fine bones by nature, so eat slowly and watch out. If you want no bones at all, ask whether they can make the same dish with a boneless fish such as mandarin fish (桂鱼) — it costs more, but the meat is cleaner.

How do you pay at Yangshuo beer fish restaurants, and is English OK?

Most places take WeChat Pay and Alipay first; some accept cash in yuan, but almost none take foreign credit cards. It helps to link a Visa or Mastercard to Alipay or WeChat before you travel. Yangshuo is a tourist town, so many restaurants on West Street have picture menus and staff with some English. The easiest order is simply to say "啤酒鱼" (pí jiǔ yú) and point at the size of fish you want — and the town's signature dish is on its way.

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