Onyado Kiyomizuya — 5 types of onsen and real Jigokudani views at Noboribetsu
Picture soaking in an open-air bath on a cool Hokkaido night, the valley below you steaming non-stop from Jigokudani — Hell Valley. That image alone is why Onyado Kiyomizuya holds a score of 9.2 from 1,247 reviews and consistently ranks among the top one or two ryokan in Noboribetsu. Renovated in 2018 from lobby to library lounge, this is not the creaking old ryokan you might fear; it is a property where modern travellers feel genuinely at ease and still get a fully authentic Hokkaido onsen experience — arguably the most complete of any place in this roundup.
Noboribetsu is the name Japanese people say first when talking about Hokkaido's finest onsen — and Onyado Kiyomizuya sits right at the heart of that reputation. Located at 173 Noboribetsu Onsen-cho, it is just a five-minute walk from Noboribetsu Onsen Bus Terminal, so once your bus pulls in you can roll your bag straight to the door. Getting here from Sapporo Station means taking the JR Hokuto limited express for 65 minutes, then the Donan Bus for another 13 minutes to the terminal — under 90 minutes in total, which is very manageable for a premium onsen resort of this calibre.
"We soaked in the outdoor rotenburo at dusk and watched the mist rising from Jigokudani in the lamplight — multiple guests say it is an image they will carry for the rest of their lives."
What separates Kiyomizuya from the older ryokan in the same town is the 2018 renovation that transformed the lobby into a contemporary art space and added a library lounge stocked with books, comfortable sofas, and a free drink bar where you can settle in with coffee or herbal tea any time of day. The atmosphere feels closer to a modern boutique hotel than a run-down traditional inn — if you have been avoiding onsen ryokan because you feared the decor, this place should change your mind.
The beating heart of Kiyomizuya is its five distinct types of hot spring in a single building — milky white sulfur, iron-rich, alum, salt and radium. Each bath looks different and feels different against the skin, and the ability to move between all five in a single evening is something no other property in this roundup can fully match. Guests who have been before consistently report that every bath was clean, the water circulated well, and ticking all five types off in one stay felt genuinely special.
The most-photographed and most-praised feature in the reviews is the outdoor rotenburo on the upper floor overlooking Jigokudani valley. The geothermal steam rises from the natural sulfur pools below without pause, day or night, giving the view an otherworldly quality. The sulfur scent at Noboribetsu is noticeably stronger than at Jozankei — most guests call it "what real onsen should smell like" and say it became the defining memory of their stay.
The Kaiseki dinner included in the ¥26,000 per night rate (for two people) is an 8-course Hokkaido seafood meal — crab, scallops and seasonal catches served in a newly designed dining room. Breakfast is also included. When you account for two quality meals plus unlimited onsen across five mineral types plus a well-appointed ryokan room, the ¥26,000 price point represents solid value compared to equivalent ryokan in Kyoto or Tokyo where prices are considerably higher.
It is worth being honest about the trade-offs: Kiyomizuya is not the cheapest option in Noboribetsu — Sekisuitei costs less — and the library lounge closes at 22:00, which is a real curfew for night owls. The journey from Sapporo also takes 90 minutes, noticeably longer than the 70-minute trip to Jozankei. If you are very short on time, Jozankei is more convenient. But if you want the full breadth of onsen mineral variety and the authentic spectacle of Jigokudani that no other Hokkaido resort quite replicates — Kiyomizuya remains the strongest answer.
Honestly, coming to Noboribetsu and skipping the outdoor rotenburo at dusk here means missing one of the most talked-about moments in all of Hokkaido travel. A score of 9.2 from 1,247 reviews is not a lucky average — it is the evidence of a place that consistently delivers exactly what it promises.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Renovated 2018 — contemporary lobby, library lounge and free drink bar
- ✓ 5 types of onsen in one building — try all in a single evening
- ✓ Outdoor rotenburo overlooking Jigokudani Hell Valley
- ✓ 8-course Kaiseki Hokkaido seafood + breakfast included in the rate
- ! From ¥26,000 per night — not the cheapest option in Noboribetsu (Sekisuitei costs less)
- ! Library lounge closes at 22:00 — not ideal for late-night readers
- ! JR + bus totals 90 minutes from Sapporo — further than Jozankei
- ✓ Score 9.2 from 1,247 reviews — consistently #1 or #2 in Noboribetsu
- ✓ Strong sulfur scent — guests who love authentic onsen say it feels like the real Hokkaido
- ✓ 5-minute walk from the bus terminal — no shuttle needed
- ✓ Attentive staff, warm atmosphere with modern design touches
- ! Jigokudani's sulfur smell is strong — not for everyone
- ! During the Snow Festival in February, book 4–5 months ahead
- ! Some rooms do not face Jigokudani directly — specify at time of booking
- 💡If budget is tight — Kiyomizuya costs more than Sekisuitei in the same town → compare Sekisuitei's rates first before deciding.
- 💡If your time in Hokkaido is limited or you are doing a day-trip base — Noboribetsu is 90 minutes from Sapporo, further than Jozankei at 70 minutes → if one night is all you have, Jozankei is more time-efficient.
- 💡If you are sensitive to strong sulfur smells — Jigokudani is known for intense geothermal scent → consider Jozankei instead, where the sulfur level is noticeably milder.