Hanamomiji — Jozankei's highest-rated luxury ryokan with open-air rotenburo and valley views
Picture this: you're soaking in an open-air hot-spring bath (rotenburo) surrounded by mountain forest — autumn leaves blazing red and gold around you, or snow settling silently on the valley in winter — while the sound of the Toyohira River drifts up below. And you know that in the evening a chef will serve nine courses of Kaiseki using the freshest Hokkaido ingredients. That is what Hanamomiji delivers every night. This ryokan holds the highest guest score in Jozankei at 9.4, and it earns every point.
Hanamomiji sits in the Jozankei Onsen Nishi 3-chome area of Minami-ku, Sapporo — roughly 70 minutes from the city by Jotetsu Bus along a winding mountain road. The air here runs 4–5 degrees cooler than downtown Sapporo year-round. Jozankei Onsen is one of Hokkaido's most established hot-spring resort areas, a place locals have retreated to for rest and recovery for centuries. Hanamomiji is the property that international travellers consistently vote to the top of the pile.
"The Kaiseki dinner was the best meal of my life, the rotenburo under the stars was unforgettable — I want to come back every year."
The aspect guests mention most is the outdoor rotenburo set against the valley. The open-air hot-spring bath is positioned to look directly over the Toyohira River and the forested hillside. From September through April the contrast between chilly mountain air and mineral-rich hot water is extraordinary — something a city spa simply cannot replicate. Premium rooms include a private hinoki cypress bath inside the room, which means you can soak at any hour without heading to the shared onsen facility.
On the food — a nine-course Kaiseki dinner is included in the room rate, with no additional charge. The chef sources ingredients seasonally from Hokkaido: scallops, squid, root vegetables in winter, mountain greens in summer, all arranged across beautiful ceramic dishes. Breakfast — a traditional Japanese spread complete with hot-spring-cooked eggs — is included too. Guests who have been here consistently say the food matches dedicated Kaiseki restaurants in the city, only here you're gazing at a mountain valley while you eat.
The rooms are dressed in traditional Japanese style — tatami floors, down-filled futon, timber furniture. It's a warmth that a standard hotel room doesn't achieve. Premium rooms add a private hinoki cypress bath, and the scent of the wood stays lightly with you through the night. For standard rooms, the shared onsen facility is well maintained and opens at multiple sessions throughout the day.
Getting here: take a Jotetsu Bus Route 7 or 8 from Sapporo Station and alight at the Jozankei Onsen stop — about 70 minutes. The mountain road twists and climbs, which is beautiful but can be hard on those prone to motion sickness. Some guests opt for a taxi from central Sapporo for a more comfortable ride. In terms of connectivity, Wi-Fi in mountain areas can be inconsistent — several reviews mention this. It's worth downloading offline maps and saving your bus timetables before leaving the city.
One thing that requires planning: availability. During February's Sapporo Snow Festival and national holiday periods, Hanamomiji fills up very quickly — sometimes four to five months ahead. If your dates are flexible, a Free Cancellation rate is worth choosing so you're not locked in if plans change.
The short version: Hanamomiji is the answer for anyone who wants to experience authentic Japanese ryokan hospitality in a single stay — open-air soaking, a Kaiseki dinner, sleeping on tatami, and waking to a snow-covered mountain scene. All of this at ¥38,000 per night for two guests including two meals. Most guests say the value is clear.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Open-air rotenburo overlooking the Toyohira River valley
- ✓ 9-course Kaiseki dinner + breakfast included — no extra charge
- ✓ Premium rooms with private hinoki cypress bath
- ✓ Highest score in Jozankei — 9.4 from real guests
- ! From ¥38,000/night for two — not a budget option
- ! 70-minute winding mountain bus ride — not ideal if you get carsick
- ! Wi-Fi can be unreliable in some rooms due to mountain location
- ✓ Authentic ryokan experience — tatami, yukata, Japanese rituals
- ✓ Shared onsen facility clean and well managed — multiple sessions daily
- ✓ Kaiseki meals of exceptional quality using fresh Hokkaido produce
- ✓ Peaceful, removed from the city — genuine rest and recuperation
- ! Books out months ahead during the February Snow Festival
- ! No modern amenities like a gym or swimming pool
- ! Last bus back to Sapporo is relatively early — plan your evening carefully
- 💡If budget is a concern — ¥38,000 per night for two is a serious spend → look at other Jozankei options like Suizantei which start lower while still offering onsen.
- 💡If you are prone to motion sickness — the Jozankei mountain road winds for 70 minutes → consider taking a taxi instead of the bus, or take motion-sickness medication before setting out.
- 💡If you are visiting in February (Snow Festival) — Hanamomiji fills very fast → book 4–5 months ahead, or you will almost certainly miss out.