Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta — soak in your own private forest rotenburo
Imagine opening your room door to find a private outdoor rotenburo surrounded by Hokkaido forest — no neighbours, no shared bath queue, just you, the hot spring water, and the sound of the trees. That is exactly what Jozankei Tsuruga Resort Spa Mori no Uta delivers in every single room. A score of 9.3 from 632 Booking reviews and 410 on Trip.com tells you that practically everyone who makes the 70-minute trip from Sapporo comes away wanting to go back.
Tsuruga Mori no Uta sits in Jozankei Onsen, Sapporo's mountain hot-spring district to the south of the city. It takes 70 minutes from Sapporo Station on the Jotetsu Bus, or a free shuttle if you book direct. What sets this property entirely apart from ordinary ryokan is a simple but extraordinary concept: every one of the 70 rooms has its own private outdoor rotenburo. That means 70 rooms, 70 open-air baths, each enclosed by living trees, with no line of sight into any neighbouring window. You can soak, unclothed, under the open sky at 2 a.m. or at dawn — whenever the mood takes you.
"Guests come back saying the same thing — soaking alone in the forest rotenburo at 4 a.m., hearing only water and birdsong, was the most peaceful moment of their lives."
The interiors follow a contemporary minimalist direction — not wall-to-wall tatami in the old style, but Japanese pine furniture, cream-toned linen and floor-to-ceiling windows framing the forest. Each room connects an indoor bath directly to the outdoor rotenburo, so you can move between the two at will during a long soak. The mood is what you might call quiet luxury: nothing showy, nothing fussy, just a space that lets the surroundings do the talking.
Food is the other headline act. The kaiseki dinner is built around fresh Hokkaido produce in season — snow crab, Hokkaido scallops and Wagyu beef, served as a multi-course progression either in your room or in a private dining area. At ¥32,000 per night for two people, dinner and breakfast are both included, so there is no need to venture out into Jozankei village for a meal. Many guests say the kaiseki alone justified the full cost of the trip.
On the ground floor you will find a library lounge open 24 hours, stocked with art and design books and complimentary drinks. It is a perfect spot for the morning after an early rotenburo session, or a quiet wind-down before bed. Large windows let natural light pour in throughout the day, and at night the mood shifts to something much more intimate.
Getting here: Jozankei Onsen is around 70 minutes from Sapporo Station on the Jotetsu Bus (Jozankei Onsen line), or you can arrange the free hotel shuttle when booking direct. The mountain road winds a little on the way up — worth knowing if you are prone to motion sickness. Once you arrive, though, there is no need to leave the resort; everything you need is already there.
It is worth being straight about the price — ¥32,000+ per night is not within everyone's budget, and if you prefer traditional tatami-style ryokan or want to stay close to central Sapporo, this may not be the right fit. But if you are after privacy, deep quiet, and a genuine private forest onsen for two, Tsuruga Mori no Uta is very hard to match at this distance from Sapporo.
The best season is winter (December to March) — soaking in a rotenburo while snow falls around you is the image most people are chasing. That also means booking 5 to 6 months ahead, especially in February when the powder is at its deepest. Autumn (October to November) is the easier alternative: the forest turns gold and red, availability is less tight, and the price is broadly similar — a very worthwhile option.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Private outdoor rotenburo in every room — complete privacy in the forest
- ✓ Hokkaido kaiseki seafood of high quality, included in the rate
- ✓ Contemporary minimalist design — clean, comfortable and calming
- ✓ 24-hour library lounge with complimentary drinks
- ! Rate of ¥32,000+ per night — strictly luxury tier
- ! 70 minutes from Sapporo Station by bus
- ! Books out 5-6 months ahead in winter peak season
- ✓ Private rotenburo every room — the highest possible level of privacy
- ✓ Free shuttle when booked direct — very convenient
- ✓ Breakfast included in the rate and of excellent quality
- ✓ Peaceful and quiet — ideal for couples wanting genuine rest
- ! No city-hotel amenities nearby (shopping, entertainment etc.)
- ! Mountain road is winding — worth noting if prone to motion sickness
- ! Minimalist room style — if you prefer traditional tatami, this may not suit
- 💡If budget is a concern or you are travelling solo — ¥32,000 per night is priced for two people; split alone it is very expensive → look at budget onsen options in Jozankei or the Sapporo city area instead.
- 💡If you want traditional tatami-style ryokan atmosphere — the design here is contemporary minimalist, not classic → consider Jozankei Tsuruga Bessen Suizantei nearby, which leans more traditional in style.
- 💡If you are visiting in winter (February especially) — it is the most spectacular season but also the most in-demand → book 5 to 6 months in advance, do not leave it until close to your travel date.