What to see in Krabi
Thailand's limestone coast — longtail boats, clear islands, a clifftop temple

Picture a peninsula so walled off by limestone cliffs that no road can reach it — you cross by longtail boat, and that's the whole appeal. Railay West is a white-sand swimming beach, lovely at sunset. Railay East is mangrove-fringed with cheaper places to stay, and a path leads through to Phra Nang Beach, with its cave shrine and some of the finest cliff scenery in Thailand. Tonsai, next door, is the gathering point for climbers from all over the world, because these walls are famous for rock climbing. You can wander it all in a day.

Ask where to base yourself in Krabi and most people will say Ao Nang — the beach town that has it all: a beachfront strip lined with restaurants, massage shops, convenience stores and rooms at every budget. The key is the Ao Nang pier, the gateway to Railay, the Four-Island and Hong tours and Phi Phi, running daily. The beach itself is swimmable but not the prettiest in the area; people come for the convenience. At dusk it's a fine spot for a seafront stroll and the sunset, and the nightlife stays low-key — nothing like Pattaya.

The classic almost every first-timer does — a single trip around four islands close to Ao Nang: Phra Nang, with its beach under the cliffs; Chicken Island, named for its chicken-head rock; Tup and Mor islands, where a sandbar surfaces at low tide to form the Separated Sea; and Poda, all white sand and clear water. It's about swimming, snorkelling for fish and photos, and it suits families. Choose a longtail (slower, atmospheric) or a speedboat (faster), and go half day or full day.

Honestly, if you want calmer, greener water than the Four-Island tour gives, the Hong Islands are the answer — a group a little further out whose highlight is the lagoon (the "hong," or room), a sheltered bay walled in by cliffs on both sides, the water inside still and jade-green, ideal for a kayak or a float. There's also a panoramic viewpoint on the island, a short climb that opens onto islands scattered across the sea. The day is mostly snorkelling, swimming and photos, run as a boat trip from Ao Nang. Parts fall within a national park, so there can be an entry fee.

The Phi Phi islands sit midway between Krabi and Phuket, and they make an easy day trip from Krabi — the ferry from the Ao Nang pier takes about 1.5–2 hours, or a speedboat is quicker. The highlight is Maya Bay (from the film "The Beach"), where cliffs wrap around a white-sand beach, plus Pileh Lagoon and snorkelling stops for fish and coral. I'll be honest, Phi Phi gets very busy, Maya Bay especially, so an early tour means thinner crowds. If you'd rather weigh up going from the Phuket side instead, there's a guide for that too.

Wat Tham Suea, the Tiger Cave Temple, is one to combine with a love of a good view — the highlight is the 1,237-step climb to a summit topped with a Buddha image and a Buddha footprint, and from the top a 360-degree view of Krabi: cliffs, forest, palm groves and the open sea. The name comes from a legend that tigers once lived in the cave, and a mark said to be a tiger's pawprint. I'll be straight: the stairs are steep and tiring, and the steps are uneven, so climb early to dodge the heat, carry water and watch the monkeys, which snatch food. If the climb isn't for you, the temple and caves at the base are worth a look on their own.

Trade the sea for the forest for a day. About an hour southeast of the city, the Khlong Thom rainforest hides the Emerald Pool (Sa Morakot), a natural pool of clear jade-green water you can swim in, cool and shallow. A path on from the Emerald Pool leads to the Blue Pool, a deeper, more intense blue — though I'll note the Blue Pool sometimes closes to recover, or the colour fades by season, so check before you go. Nearby, the hot springs are natural thermal pools that step down the hillside for a warm soak. You can do all three as a single day trip.

If you've seen a postcard or a logo of Krabi, it's usually the twin limestone peaks standing either side of the Krabi River at the river mouth — that's Khao Khanab Nam, the town's emblem, visible from the riverfront in Krabi Town. To visit, take a longtail from Chao Fah Pier in town, gliding through mangroves to land at the foot of the peaks, where caves with stalactites and stalagmites are open to explore. It's a gentle, short outing — easy to slot in while you're in Krabi Town, or just shoot the twin peaks from the riverfront at dusk.

One of the things people most want to catch in Krabi — at low tide, a white sandbar slowly surfaces and links three islands (Chicken, Tup and Mor) together, so you can walk from one island to the next across the sand in the middle of the sea. It's an odd, photogenic sight. Right beside it is Chicken Island, named for its chicken-head rock. The Separated Sea is a stop on the Four-Island tour, and the key is to time it with low tide — a good tour schedules around the tide table, so check what time low tide falls before you book.

After dark Krabi has a few markets worth a wander. In town, the Krabi Walking Street opens at weekends with southern-Thai food, sweets, souvenirs and live music, an easy-going scene. Nearby, the Chao Fah Pier market serves fresh, well-priced seafood by the river. Over in Ao Nang, the markets and stalls behind the beach are the place to eat and browse after a day on the water. It's a good way to close the day — a plate of grilled seafood or pad thai, then a stroll in the sea breeze.

Once you've done the city and the bays around Ao Nang, the region delivers more. Ko Lanta is a big island to the south, quieter and more laid-back, good for families and anyone after a proper rest, with long beaches and viewpoints. Khlong Thom, beyond the Emerald Pool, also has nature spots and a bead museum. Khao Phanom Bencha National Park is Krabi's highest mountain, with waterfalls and rainforest. And Phuket is only a few hours' drive away — if you're torn between Krabi and Phuket, there's a comparison for that.