After dark, the road at the southern end of Pattaya closes to traffic and becomes a 500-metre pedestrian strip from the Bali Hai pier — neon signs blazing on both sides, live bands spilling out of the bars, seafood places stacked with fresh shellfish. This is Pattaya's best-known night out.
Picture it: nine in the evening on the South Pattaya seafront, and you are standing at the top of the street near the Bali Hai pier. Ahead, the whole road is closed to cars, neon signs in blue and pink running off into the distance, people moving every which way, the sound of a live band in one bar mixing with the smell of grilled prawns from the seafood place next door. This is Walking Street, the night-time scene that has become Pattaya's signature image.
Walking Street is a short road, about 500 metres long, at the southern tip of Pattaya, running north from the Bali Hai pier along Pattaya Beach. By day it is an ordinary, fairly quiet seafront road with most venues shut. But from around 6pm it closes to traffic and turns into a full pedestrian street, both sides packed with bars, clubs, live-music venues, seafood restaurants, discos and shows of every kind — one of the biggest and busiest nightlife districts in Thailand.
I'll be straight: Walking Street is known for adult nightlife, but it is more than that. In the early evening it is a place families and couples come to see the lights, hear the music and eat seafood by the sea, while later in the night the mood tilts towards partying and bars. The trick is to match the time to the kind of evening you want, and to know about prices and tourist traps before you go.
Walking Street changes face through the day — pick the time that matches what you want to find.
By day Walking Street is just an ordinary seafront road. Most bars are shut, the neon is off, and traffic runs through. Some people come to photograph the entrance sign when it is empty, or stop at the few seafood places open in the daytime, but the atmosphere is nothing like the evening. To see what the fuss is about, you need to come after dark.
This is the time to come if you want a relaxed wander. The road has just closed to cars, the neon is coming on, the crowds are still thin, and the seafood and other restaurants are open for a sit-down meal. Live bands are starting up, and you can photograph the lights — all fine for families — before the street gets crowded and tilts towards partying later on.
After 9pm the street fills up, music blasts from every direction, the bars and clubs are in full swing, touts try to pull you in, and the mood is firmly adult nightlife — drinking, dancing and shows. It is good fun if a night out is exactly what you came for, but with young children, or if you want a gentler evening, it is better to leave before this stretch of the night.
The heart of Walking Street is the live-music bars — everything from rock bands playing covers and Thai bands to bars spinning dance music. Many open their fronts onto the street so you can see the band from outside and listen for free without going in. If you do sit down for a drink, ask the price of drinks and ask to see a menu with clear prices before you order — some bars don't display prices and the bill can be higher than you expect.
Walking Street has seafood restaurants with tanks of fresh prawns, shellfish, crab and fish out front, ready to weigh and cook on the spot — another draw that families enjoy sitting down for. The same rule applies: check the price per kilo and ask exactly how it is charged before you order, especially for things priced by weight like lobster or crab. See seafood across Pattaya, with prices compared, in the Pattaya seafood guide.
Beyond the bars, the street has buskers, costumed characters posing for photos, and venues with small shows out front. Just walking the strip for the neon and the buzz is an experience in itself. If you want a full cabaret show that the whole family can enjoy, Pattaya has the big theatres — Alcazar and Tiffany's — which are off this street, and you can book tickets in advance.
Walking Street is fun and reasonably safe if you stay aware of a few basics.
Walking Street isn't the only Pattaya after dark — there are options families will find more comfortable.
The street is at the southern end of Pattaya near the Bali Hai pier. Pattaya has no city metro or train — getting around is mainly by baht bus, motorbike taxi and Grab.
Stay in Central or South Pattaya to walk out to the night strip easily; Jomtien is quieter but still a short ride away.