Koh Phi Phi has no cars and no roads — you get around on foot and by longtail only, and each beach gives you a different trip: from the lively Loh Dalum strip and its sunset, to Long Beach where the swimming is best and Phi Phi Leh sits in view, to quiet, upscale Laem Tong in the north and Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh as a day trip. Here's exactly which beach suits the trip you're planning.
Here's the honest truth: Koh Phi Phi is different from the big islands in one key way — there are no cars, no roads for vehicles and no motorbike taxis. On the island there's only walking and longtail boats. Tonsai village is a tangle of narrow lanes you can walk across, but to reach a beach further out you take a boat, not a taxi or a rented scooter. That makes picking the right beach before you book matter more than people expect: stay at Tonsai–Loh Dalum and you'll have beach bars, restaurants and a sunset on your doorstep; stay at Laem Tong or Loh Bagao in the north and you'll have the quiet of a resort bay where every outing means a boat ride.
Picture the island: Phi Phi Don is the inhabited one — a narrow isthmus in the middle holds Tonsai village and the pier on the south side, while Loh Dalum bay is on the north side of that same neck, a few minutes' walk across → to the south-east is Long Beach (Hat Yao), the best for swimming and with the Phi Phi Leh view → up the east coast is Loh Bagao, and the far northern tip is Laem Tong, a quiet resort zone → and Phi Phi Leh, with Maya Bay, is a separate uninhabited island you can only visit on a day trip. We'll compare them one by one — swimming, quiet, sunsets, couples, snorkelling — so you can match the beach to your trip.
Ordered from the central, best-known beaches to the quiet northern bays, Monkey Beach and Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh — pick by what you actually want.
1
Loh Dalum is the curved bay on the north side of Tonsai village, the opposite side from the pier — you cross the narrow village on foot in a few minutes to reach it. The water is a lovely turquoise and the sand white, and it's the island's sunset spot and the hub of its nightlife, where the beach bars, fire shows and parties cluster. The honest thing to know: the bay is very shallow and strongly tide-dependent. At low tide the water retreats a long way and leaves a wide expanse of sand that's hard to swim in; only at high tide is it lovely for a dip. It suits people who want to be in the middle of the buzz, watch the sunset, and aren't fussed about deep-water swimming.
2
Tonsai Bay is the gateway to Koh Phi Phi — the pier where ferries from Phuket, Krabi and Ao Nang dock, so it's the busiest spot on the island: restaurants, dive shops, convenience stores, money changers and ATMs, accommodation across the range, and lanes packed with places to wander. Its draw isn't the prettiest sand (it's more a port area than a swimming beach, and the water by the pier is shallow with boats moored) but convenience — step off the boat and wheel your bag to your room, close to everything, with Loh Dalum just a few minutes' walk across the isthmus. It suits short stays, your first or last night before a boat, and anyone who wants to be in the middle of it all.
3
Long Beach sits on the south-east of Phi Phi Don and is the beach most people rate the best for swimming on the island — white sand, clear water, and a shelf that deepens enough to actually swim rather than wade out forever like at Loh Dalum. Its other draw is the Phi Phi Leh view right in front of you, gorgeous at dusk, and you can snorkel over coral and fish straight off the sand. It's quieter and more relaxed than Tonsai, with resorts and restaurants spread along it. The trade-off: it's away from the Tonsai buzz, reached by a 30-minute walk along the shore or a short longtail ride. It suits swimmers, couples, and anyone who wants a lovely beach that's still walkable back to Tonsai.
Laem Tong sits at the far northern tip of Phi Phi Don and is the quietest, most private upscale resort zone on the island — white sand, calm clear water, and a clear remove from the bustle of Tonsai. Several resorts here run their own shuttle boats that collect guests from the pier, so you never have to pass through the busy village at all. It suits honeymooners and anyone who wants to settle in by the sea and not go anywhere. The honest trade-offs: there are few restaurants or shops outside the resorts, room rates run higher than around Tonsai, and any time you want the village or another beach you take a boat — so plan boat times carefully. This is a beach for people who genuinely want to switch off.
Loh Bagao is a broad bay on the north-east coast, between Long Beach and Laem Tong — another quiet, resort-focused stretch with a long sandy beach, calm water and far fewer people than the Tonsai side. The mood is relaxed seaside downtime, with resorts and their restaurants to lean on, though little in the way of shops outside them. It's reached by resort shuttle boat or longtail from Tonsai. It suits people who want Laem Tong's calm at what can be a more flexible budget, and who don't mind taking a boat whenever they head out. The trade-off is the same as the other northern bays: limited dining choices and not much going on at night.
Beyond the main beaches, Phi Phi Don hides a few small quiet coves for people who want to get away from the crowd. Nui Bay is a little cove ringed by limestone cliffs, with clear water and good snorkelling over coral, and it's a stop on some boat tours. Runtee Bay, on the east, is a small calm bay with just a few places to stay and a very private feel. These coves are reached mainly by longtail (the overland paths are steep and awkward). The trade-off: there are very few restaurants or shops, so plan your drinking water and your boat back. They suit snorkellers and anyone who wants a quiet cove to themselves for half a day.
Monkey Beach is a small cove you reach by longtail to see the troop of crab-eating macaques that live on the rocks along the shore. It's a popular stop on island and sunset boat tours, with clear water and a pretty limestone backdrop — but the draw is seeing the monkeys up close. This needs saying plainly, for your safety and theirs: these are wild monkeys used to people, and some are bold and will grab things. Don't feed them, don't try to touch them or take close selfies, keep food, water bottles, sunglasses and valuables zipped away, and don't reach out a hand. Feeding makes them aggressive and risks a bite or scratch that means rabies shots. Watch from a distance and photograph them from a safe range — that's plenty of fun and you'll still get good photos. It's a stop on a tour, not a beach to laze on all day.
8
Maya Bay, on Phi Phi Leh (the separate, uninhabited island), is the curved limestone-walled, turquoise-water bay made world-famous by the film "The Beach". It was closed from 2018 to 2022 to let the reefs and marine life recover, then reopened with strict rules — limited, timed entry; you usually can't swim in the bay itself (you enter via a back-bay pontoon and a boardwalk); no boats anchor in the bay; and it has periodic seasonal closures some years (sometimes around August–September). No overnight stays are allowed on Phi Phi Leh, so it's a day trip by longtail or speedboat only. It's stunning but busy mid-morning — and you should always check the current rules and closures before you book, as the conditions change.
A quick summary to decide in 30 seconds.
Loh Dalum is the liveliest side, with the beach bars, fire shows and the sunset, right next to Tonsai village and its full set of restaurants and shops. Walk to everything; the shallow water is swimmable at high tide.
Long Beach shelves deep enough to actually swim, with clear water, lovely sand and the Phi Phi Leh view. Snorkel over coral off the sand. A 30-minute walk or a longtail from Tonsai.
Laem Tong and Loh Bagao in the north are the quiet resort zones — calm, clear, private, reached by boat. Good for relaxed downtime, not parties. The trade-off is few shops outside the resorts.
Nui Bay snorkels over coral, Monkey Beach lets you see the macaques from a distance, and Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh is the iconic view (a day trip, strict rules). All by boat — combine them on a round-island tour.
The thing that sets Phi Phi apart, and that you need to grasp first, is that the island has no cars, no roads for vehicles and no motorbike taxis — forget renting a scooter, hailing a taxi or catching a songthaew. Getting around comes in two forms only: walking and longtail boats. Tonsai village is a maze of narrow lanes you can walk across, and when you arrive on your first day there are porters with carts who'll haul your bags to your accommodation (for a fee — agree it first), because dragging a suitcase through the crowded lanes yourself is no fun.
For the further-out beaches — Laem Tong, Loh Bagao, Long Beach, Nui Bay, Runtee Bay, Monkey Beach and Phi Phi Leh — you take a longtail or a resort shuttle boat. If you're staying at a northern resort, check the shuttle timetable carefully, as there are limited runs. To charter a longtail, agree the price and the pickup time clearly before you get on. And don't forget the tide matters — at some beaches like Loh Dalum the water pulls a long way out at low tide and boats can't get close to shore, so planning around the tide table helps a lot.