What to do on Koh Phi Phi
An Andaman island of twin bays — the viewpoint, Loh Dalum, quiet beaches and boat trips

This is the island's signature view, and the one not to miss — climb the steps and a steep path from Tonsai village for about 20 to 30 minutes, in three tiers. The top tier (Viewpoint 1/2) is the postcard angle, looking down on Phi Phi Don as a narrow isthmus, with Tonsai Bay on one side and Loh Dalum on the other, white sand and green water meeting from both sides. It's the view that made Phi Phi famous the world over. There's a small viewpoint entry fee (around 20 to 30 baht depending on the tier). Wear shoes with grip, as parts are steep and slippery, and go in the morning or late afternoon to dodge the midday heat. There are cafes with a fine view on the way up to catch your breath.

The other side of the isthmus from the Tonsai pier is Loh Dalum — a curved white-sand bay of shallow, emerald water, where at low tide the sand opens out wide enough for a long walk. By day it's good for kayaking, swimming and lying in the sun; in the evening it faces a fine sunset; and after dark it becomes the island's party centre, the beach bars playing music with fire shows on the sand. It's a bay that changes character through the day, and it's only a few minutes' walk across the isthmus from the Tonsai pier.

Every ferry docks at the Tonsai pier, and this is the centre of Phi Phi Don — Tonsai village is a maze of walking lanes, with no roads, no cars and no motorbike taxis, only people on foot and porters with carts. Packed into the warren of alleys are restaurants, cafes, bars, dive shops, shops, ATMs and guesthouses. Getting lost in it is part of the fun, though it's crowded and lively, especially in the early evening. Wander the dive shops to compare prices, find dinner, or book tomorrow's boat trip. Keep a rough map in your head and you'll find your way back to your room more easily.

Want to escape the bustle of Tonsai without going far? Try Long Beach (Hat Yao) on the southeast side of Phi Phi Don — a quieter, longer white-sand beach with clear water and a view out to Phi Phi Leh and Bamboo Island in the distance. The places to stay and the beach bars are spread out, not packed like the centre. You can reach it two ways: walk along the shore from Tonsai, about 20 to 30 minutes (check the tide; it's an easy walk at low water), or take a longtail boat across in a few minutes. Plenty of people base themselves here to get away from the party noise while staying close to Tonsai.

Monkey Beach is a small cove on the west side of Loh Dalum, known for its resident macaques coming down onto the sand and rocks. You reach it by longtail boat or as a stop on an island-hopping trip, and the water here is clear with some shallow coral for a bit of snorkelling. I'll be honest: the monkeys here are used to people and quite bold about food. Don't feed them, don't hold plastic bags or food in view, and keep valuables zipped away — they've been known to snatch things and bite. Watch from a distance and just take photos. It's a fun short stop, but one to be careful at.

Bamboo Island (Ko Mai Phai) is a small island to the north of Phi Phi Don, one of the prettiest stops on a boat trip — a long stretch of fine white sand and clear turquoise water that's excellent for snorkelling, with coral and fish close to shore. It's a national-park island, so there's an entry fee, and in the monsoon it can close or be too rough to land. You reach it on an island-hopping trip (most already include Bamboo Island) or by chartered boat. Go early for far fewer people and clearer water, and check the sea conditions and the fee before you go.

Nui Bay is a small, tucked-away cove on the northwest of Phi Phi Don, on the way to Bamboo Island — a little sand beach flanked by pretty limestone cliffs, with clear water that's good for snorkelling, coral and fish close in. Fewer people make it here than at the famous stops, so it's quieter and calmer. It's mostly a short stop on an island-hopping trip, a chance to get in for a snorkel before moving on, and some tours charge a small fee to land on the little beach. Good for anyone who wants a pretty cove with clear water without the crush. Check with your tour whether they stop at Nui Bay.

If you want to get further from the crowds, Runtee Bay is on the southeast of Phi Phi Don, past Long Beach — a small, quiet cove with a scatter of small bungalow-style places to stay and a slow pace, for anyone who really wants to be away from the party noise. The water is clear, with coral near shore for snorkelling. There are no roads here either, so you reach it by longtail boat from Tonsai, or walk on from Long Beach (a hill-and-shore path that takes a while and is better with someone to show the way). Food and shops are limited, so it suits a quiet type who plans ahead, not anyone after everything-on-tap convenience.

Because Phi Phi has no cars, getting to almost all the pretty spots around the island means going by boat — an island-hopping trip, half or full day, takes you to Maya Bay and Pileh Lagoon on Phi Phi Leh, Monkey Beach, Bamboo Island and Nui Bay, with snorkelling stops. There are two kinds: longtail (slower, more atmospheric, good for a few stops) and speedboat (faster, more stops in a day). Or you can charter your own longtail by the hour or half day and choose your own stops. Book ahead on Klook or with a shop in Tonsai village. Go early for fewer crowds and clearer water, and check the season — in the monsoon many tours stop and the park islands close.

After dark, Phi Phi changes mode — Loh Dalum especially becomes the island's party centre, the beach bars lined up playing music, with fire shows on the sand, buckets, and crowds well into the night. Through the Tonsai lanes there are bars, pubs and late-opening spots too. This is one reason a lot of people come to Phi Phi — and the same reason quieter types base themselves at Long Beach or in the north and only come in when they want it. Drink sensibly, keep a distance from the fire shows, and walk back to your room in a group to be safer. The bars and the after-dark spots are covered in detail in their own guide.