08:00 AM
Fly from Taipei Songshan to BeiganUNI Air or Mandarin Airlines — 50 minutes, around NT$2,800 one way. Book at least 60 days in advance; seats are very limited. Beigan Airport is on Beigan Island, so you'll need a short ferry to Nangan afterward.
10:00 AM
Ferry Beigan → Nangan (10 minutes)The pier is just 5 minutes from the airport. Ferry fare NT$50–80, crossing takes 10 minutes. Check into your guesthouse and drop your bags before heading out to explore.
11:00 AM
Tunnel 88 + Kaoliang DistilleryTunnel 88 is a Cold War-era military tunnel carved through a mountain to shelter warships — 640 metres long with seawater inside. A 5-minute walk leads to the Kaoliang Distillery, where you can watch the 58° sorghum liquor being made. NT$50/glass for a tasting.
01:30 PM
Lunch — Fuzhou Fish Ball Soup + Ji-guang BingFuzhou-style fish balls (魚丸) in a clear broth — silkier and bouncier than anything you'll find in Taipei. Ji-guang Bing (繼光餅) is a flat, crispy baked bread with a history tied to Ming dynasty general Qi Jiguang. Find it in the central market in Nangan, NT$60–120 per bowl.
03:00 PM
Yangmingshan Park + Beihai TunnelThis is not the Yangmingshan in Taipei — Nangan's version is the island's highest viewpoint, with panoramic views over the South China Sea and surrounding islands. Beihai Tunnel is larger than Tunnel 88, with higher ceilings and emerald water reflecting the lights — the single best photo spot in Matsu.
07:00 PM
Blue Tears at Daping Beach / BeihaiBlue Tears is bioluminescent plankton (Noctiluca scintillans) that glows blue when disturbed, visible to the naked eye from April to September. Download the "Matsu Blue Tears" app and check the intensity level before you go. Turn off your phone screen, let your eyes adjust to the dark for 5 minutes, then watch the waves sparkle blue.