09:00
Leave Taipei Main Station → RuifangTake TRA Yilan Line (express or local) to Ruifang — about 50–60 minutes, NT$49–86. From Ruifang, change to the Pingxi Line to Shifen (another 20 minutes). EasyCard works throughout.
10:30
Shifen Old Street · Release a sky lantern over the tracksSky lanterns NT$200 each (includes colours and brush). Write your wishes on all four sides. Shops line both sides of the track — when the train comes through, everyone folds things away in seconds. Honestly unlike anywhere else in the world. Aim to arrive before noon when it's still quiet.
12:30
Walk down to Shifen Waterfall (十分瀑布)20-minute walk from Old Street, or a tuk-tuk for NT$50. The falls are 40 metres wide and 20 metres tall — the largest in Taiwan. Free entry. Worth walking rather than riding; the trail is beautiful the whole way.
13:30
Back to Ruifang → bus up to JiufenFrom Ruifang Station take Bus 825 or Bus 1062 (which runs from Taipei via Ruifang) to Jiufen — 20–25 minutes, NT$15–25. Buses run every 20–30 minutes. Or share a taxi from Ruifang for NT$200–250.
14:30
Jiufen Old Street · Taro balls at A-Gan YiA-Gan Yi (阿柑姨芋圓) taro ball dessert with an ocean view — NT$60. This is the oldest stall with the best scenery on Old Street. Expect a 15–20 minute queue, but it's worth every minute.
15:30
A-Mei Tea House · Tea with a viewThe multi-storey red building often called the "Spirited Away inspiration" — whether that's myth or fact, it's undeniably stunning. Tea sets run NT$350–500 per person (minimum charge). The clearest view of Jiufen harbour and the mountains. Book ahead on weekends.
17:00
Sunset + Red Lanterns Begin to Glow (Peak Time)This is exactly why you planned to arrive in the afternoon. Between 17:00 and 18:30, golden light falls across the red tiles and lanterns flicker on all along Shuqi Road — the "magic hour" photographers travel from around the world to catch. Best spots: the top of the Shuqi Road steps and any tea-house balcony.
18:30
Dinner + snacks along Old StreetTry jiufen taro ball soup (九份芋圓湯), crab sausage, pineapple cakes, and seafood down the side alleys. Budget NT$200–400 per person for dinner.
20:00
Return to Taipei on Bus 1062Bus 1062 runs directly from Jiufen to Taipei's Zhongxiao Fuxing in about 1.5 hours — NT$120. Departs every 30–40 minutes. Alternatively, take a bus down to Ruifang and train back (NT$100 combined). Back in Taipei around 21:30–22:00.