Barely an hour out of Taipei, you can write a wish on a paper lantern and watch it lift off from the live train tracks of Shifen village, stand at the foot of a falls locals call Taiwan's "Little Niagara," and end the day in Jiufen's winding red-lantern alleys as the lights flick on. This guide maps out the route, the timings and the budget so this classic trip slots neatly into a single day.
Just beyond Taipei's northeastern edge, the green hills of Ruifang and Pingxi hide two old villages that have become postcards of Taiwan itself — Jiufen (九份), a former gold-mining town clinging to a hillside, its narrow lanes strung end to end with red lanterns, and Shifen (十分), a railway village on the Pingxi branch line where visitors write wishes on paper sky lanterns and release them straight from the live train tracks. The two sit close together, and pairing them into a single day has become the classic Taipei day trip.
What makes this trip special is that it serves up everything in one day — a hands-on ritual in the lantern release, raw nature at Shifen Waterfall (the widest in Taiwan), local snacks like steaming taro balls, and the time-worn atmosphere of Jiufen's lanes, which many travellers loosely link to the look of Spirited Away. The real key to enjoying it is getting the order and the timing right, because the Pingxi Line train runs just once an hour. On this page we line everything up for you: which train to board, where to go first, and how to catch Jiufen's evening light at its very best.
The trip hinges on the train — ride the TRA to Ruifang first, then branch out to the two villages. The route is not complicated, but check the times carefully, because the Pingxi Line trains are an hour apart.
Tip: As soon as you reach Ruifang or Shifen, photograph the Pingxi Line timetable. Trains are an hour apart, so missing one means a long wait. Knowing the schedule in advance lets you pace your wandering and your lantern release without rushing.
Why Shifen first? Releasing lanterns and walking to the waterfall suit daylight, while Jiufen is at its most beautiful as its red lanterns light up in the evening — order the day this way and you get good light at both, with no doubling back.
Can you flip the order? Yes — some travellers go up to Jiufen first thing when it is quieter, then drop down to Shifen in the afternoon. But do that and you miss Jiufen with its lanterns lit, which is the most beautiful sight of all. If you must choose, we recommend saving Jiufen for the evening.
Shifen was once a coal-mining town. Today it is the liveliest village on the Pingxi Line — trains still rumble straight down the middle of the street, and the moment each one passes, the crowds step back out to release their lanterns.
This is why people come to Shifen. Lantern shops line both sides of the old street, which has a working railway running straight down its centre. Choose a lantern by colour, brush your wishes onto all four sides, and the shop owner lights it and films and photographs your release as the lantern lifts skyward.
A lantern costs roughly NT$150–250 each, depending on the number of colours — single-colour is cheaper, multi-colour costs more. Each colour carries an auspicious meaning: red for health, pink for love, yellow for wealth. When a train approaches, staff blow a whistle for everyone to clear the tracks.
From the old street, follow the riverside path for about 20 minutes to reach Shifen Waterfall — a horseshoe-shaped curtain of water roughly 40 metres wide and 20 metres tall, which has earned it the nickname "Taiwan's Little Niagara." Several viewing points and a footbridge let you take it in from different angles.
The waterfall sits in a public park, free to enter and open during the day. The shaded path suits both children and older visitors. After heavy rain the falls run stronger and look especially dramatic, though the path can get slippery.
If you have the One-Day Pass, make it pay by stopping at other Pingxi Line stations — Houtong, the famous cat village; Jingtong, with its old wooden station and retro feel; and Pingxi itself, a quieter village than Shifen where you can also release lanterns.
Each station is worth about 30–60 minutes of strolling. To fit them all in, leave Taipei early and trim your Jiufen time slightly.
While you wait for your train, graze your way along the old street — chunky Taiwanese fried chicken, sticky-rice sausage, fragrant tea eggs and old-style ice cream, all easy on the wallet. Carry small cash, as many stalls do not take cards.
Shifen Old Street feels more relaxed than Jiufen — the shops are less packed and it is easier to walk, which makes it a good spot to rest and refuel before moving on.
Jiufen once thrived on its gold mines under Japanese colonial rule. When the gold ran out the town fell quiet — before coming back to life as the most atmospheric, time-worn town in Taiwan.
The heart of town is Jishan Street, a narrow covered alley that snakes along the hillside, lined on both sides with snack stalls, souvenir shops and an unbroken run of red lanterns. Follow it along and you reach the Shuqi Road steps, the steep stone staircase that is Jiufen's iconic photo spot.
The lanes are tight and busy, so walk slowly with the flow of the crowd. The best atmosphere comes at dusk, when the lanterns glow against the sky.
The A-Mei Teahouse, a three-storey building clad in dark green timber and hung with red lanterns, is the most recognised photograph of Jiufen — often (unofficially) said to echo the look of Spirited Away. Sip tea on its balcony for a sweeping view over the town.
Continue down the Shuqi Road steps and you find the small courtyard of the Shengping Theater, a beautifully restored old cinema, free to enter, that tells the story of the town's boom years.
Because Jiufen clings to a hillside, another of its pleasures is the view down towards the coast and the bay below. Find a teahouse balcony, a lookout point, or an open stretch near the end of the street, and you will see the mountains tumbling down to the sea.
Worth knowing: Jiufen sits high and the mountain weather changes fast — some days bring mist or light rain that hides the sea view. A clear day is a stroke of luck.
The signature thing to try is taro balls — chewy, soft little dumplings made from taro and sweet potato, served hot in ginger soup or cold over shaved ice. Several famous shops line the lanes.
Do not miss the bean-flour ice-cream roll with coriander, an unusual but delicious bite, and Jiufen's fish balls in hot broth — the food here is reasonably priced and part of the whole experience.
If you would rather not juggle the train and bus connections yourself, or you want to add Yehliu to the same day, a guided day tour sorts the route and the transport for you, with a guide along the way — browse the options and prices on Klook. Going independently by train is cheaper and more flexible, so pick whichever suits you.
🚐 See Jiufen–Shifen tours on Klook →The figures below are an approximate per-person budget (in New Taiwan dollars) for travelling independently by public transport — actual costs vary with how much you eat and shop.
| Item | Detail | Approx. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Train Taipei ⇄ Ruifang | Round trip, local train | ~NT$100 |
| Pingxi Line One-Day Pass | Unlimited branch-line rides | ~NT$80 |
| Bus 1062 | Ruifang–Jiufen and Jiufen–Taipei | ~NT$60 |
| One sky lantern | Average per lantern (shareable) | ~NT$200 |
| Shifen Waterfall | Free to enter | NT$0 |
| 2 meals + snacks | Shifen Old Street + Jiufen | ~NT$350–500 |
| Approx. total per person | Independent, one day | ~NT$800–1,000 |
Compared with a tour: A guided day tour with transport and a guide usually costs more than going independently, but you trade that for the ease of not making the connections yourself — and most tours include Yehliu too. If you are a small group on a budget, doing it yourself by train is cheaper and more flexible.
Open the full Jiufen town guide, see more of Taipei's attractions, or follow up with our Taipei 101 guide.
A full-page deep dive into Jiufen — where to stay, eat and wander, and how to make the most of the hillside town.
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See Taipei attractions →Your next day in the city — the observatory, ticket prices and the golden hour atop Taipei 101.
Read the Taipei 101 guide →Don't want to plan it yourself? Compare 6 day-tour styles from Taipei — Group / Small Group / Private / Half-Day / DIY + sky lantern — which is best for your travel style.
Compare Jiufen Tours →If you only have half a day to one day, which town is worth visiting most? Read the full comparison of all 3 northern Taipei old towns.
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Read the comparison →Most travellers use Taipei as a base and go out for the day, but if you want to see Jiufen after the day-trippers have left, an overnight stay on the hill is a special experience. Open our full Taipei guide to plan every day, or start searching for somewhere to stay.