Wangfu Hotel Lijiang — Sleep in the Old Mu-Family Palace in the Heart of Dayan Old Town, a Naxi Courtyard Hotel Within Walking Distance of Everything
Picture walking through a gold-carved timber gate into a pebble courtyard laid out in a Naxi auspicious pattern, ringed by two-storey wooden wings with a camellia tree and parasols at the edge — that's the first impression for guests at Wangfu Hotel Lijiang (丽江王府饭店), a heritage hotel built on the site of the old guest house of the Mu family (木氏), the Naxi rulers of old Lijiang. It sits right by the South Gate of Dayan Old Town (大研古城南门), in the heart of Lijiang's UNESCO World Heritage quarter — a few minutes' walk from the Mu Palace (木府), Sifang Street (四方街), and the canal lanes that thread through the whole town. A score of 8.8/10 reflects how much guests love the location and the old-palace atmosphere, while being honest about a building that is starting to show its age. Honestly, if you want to sleep right inside the old town in a real Naxi courtyard within easy walking distance of everything, guests say with one voice that this is a hard location to beat at a price you can still reach.
Here's the first thing guests tend to mention — the location right in the old town. Wangfu Hotel Lijiang sits by the South Gate of Dayan Old Town (大研古城), the Naxi (纳西) UNESCO World Heritage quarter. From the front door it's a few minutes' walk to Sifang Street (四方街), the central square where stone lanes and waterwheel-fed canals branch off in every direction, and — crucially — it's very close to the Mu Palace (木府), the palace of the old Naxi rulers. The hotel itself was built on the site of the Mu family's former guest house, which is why it's designed as carved Naxi timber wings around a courtyard rather than a generic tower. Many guests say that simply walking in feels like sleeping inside an old palace rather than a standard hotel.
One guest recalls: "Great location — you're right in the old town, step out the gate and you're in the shop lanes and at Sifang Street, and the Mu Palace is just a few minutes away. The hotel is an old Naxi timber building with a lovely courtyard, perfect for a quiet morning tea before heading out. Staff even helped cart our luggage in at check-in. The room was clean but looks a little dated for its age. On the whole, good value for a location like this."
The heart of the place is the Naxi courtyard atmosphere. The hotel lays out around 92 rooms — 76 standard rooms, 12 singles, and 4 suites — around stone courtyards paved in Naxi auspicious patterns, with two-storey timber wings, gold-carved wooden window frames, grey-tile roofs, and the red timber balconies that define old-town architecture. Plenty of guests like settling in for a tea or coffee by the courtyard in the morning before heading out to wander. On the practical side, rooms have air conditioning, a flat-screen TV, a minibar, a kettle, and an en-suite bathroom — this is a place for travellers who want atmosphere and location more than resort-style spa-and-pool amenities.
Another thing guests praise often is the value for the location. You get to sleep inside the old town in a genuine heritage building, yet rates start at around ¥360/night — well below the luxury resorts over by Jade Dragon Snow Mountain like the Banyan Tree or the Pullman. Reviewers here mainly to explore the old town often say this is exactly why they chose it: you can step out at dawn and walk the quiet lanes before the crowds arrive, with no need to ride in from the edge of town. And for travellers heading farther afield — to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) or Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) — it makes an easy base to charter a taxi/DiDi or join a tour from.
On getting around, you have to understand how Lijiang works first — Dayan Old Town is entirely car-free and pedestrianised, and Lijiang has no metro or subway. When you arrive, a taxi or DiDi drops you at one of the town gates (the nearest is the South Gate, 南门) and you walk in from there, or the staff bring a porter cart to help haul your bags the rest of the way; the hotel isn't far in from the South Gate. If you're flying in, Lijiang Sanyi Airport (LJG) is about 28 km south, a roughly 40–50 minute taxi ride. If you arrive by train, you'll land at Lijiang Railway Station (丽江站), with trains to Kunming in about 3–3.5 hours, Dali around 2 hours, and Shangri-La around 1.3 hours, then transfer by taxi to the old town.
A score of 8.8/10 shows how consistently guests come away pleased — especially with the old-town location, the Naxi courtyard atmosphere, and helpful staff. The criticisms are real and worth knowing first. The first: the building is old and has been open a long time, so a few rooms and corners are starting to feel dated — the furniture and some bathrooms aren't as fresh as a newly opened boutique. The second: at night the old town has a bar street (酒吧街) that's loud until late, so rooms near that zone can pick up the music. The third: the old town is walk-only with uneven cobblestone underfoot, which makes dragging small-wheeled suitcases hard; anyone with mobility limits or large bags should plan for it. And don't forget Lijiang sits at around 2,400 m altitude — the nights are cool, the sun is strong, and you may tire more easily for the first day or two.
Standard rates start at around ~¥360 (฿1,800) per night for a standard room, with a typical range of about ฿1,800–2,800 depending on season and room type; deluxe rooms and suites climb to around ¥520 and up. Rates spike and rooms fill fast over China's long holidays — Golden Week (October 1–7), Chinese New Year, and Labour Day (May 1–5) — and in the summer-and-autumn-colour season when domestic travellers flock to Yunnan, since Lijiang is a hugely popular honeymoon destination, so book several weeks ahead and take a free-cancellation rate to be safe. On the whole, if you want to sleep inside the old town in a Naxi courtyard within walking distance of everything at a price you can reach, the Wangfu Hotel Lijiang is the location pick that many guests rate among the best value in the old town.
The honest summary, friend to friend: Wangfu Hotel Lijiang is for travellers who want a base inside Dayan Old Town, a Naxi courtyard atmosphere, and a short walk to the Mu Palace and Sifang Street, at a price that's good value. If you're here mainly for the old town, you love an old-palace feel over a modern tower, and you can take an older building that shows its age, this is great value for the location. But if you'd rather have a brand-new design-led room, a spa and pool, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain views, compare it against the InterContinental Lijiang Ancient Town or the Pullman Lijiang Resort & Spa in our list first.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Genuinely in Dayan Old Town, by the South Gate — walk to Sifang Street and the Mu Palace
- ✓ Carved Naxi-style timber wings around a courtyard, an old-palace atmosphere
- ✓ Good value for the location — a heritage stay inside the old town from around ¥360/night
- ✓ Helpful staff who cart luggage in and out through the car-free zone
- ! The building is old; a few rooms and corners feel dated
- ! No resort-style pool or spa, and no Jade Dragon Snow Mountain view
- ✓ Step out the gate at dawn to walk the old town before the crowds arrive
- ✓ Works as a base for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain / Lugu Lake — easy to charter a taxi or DiDi
- ✓ Rooms in several styles around the courtyard, quieter than the bar-street side
- ✓ Real Naxi architecture — the courtyard and balconies photograph beautifully
- ! Rooms near the bar street (酒吧街) can pick up music until late at night
- ! The old town is walk-only with uneven cobblestones — hard for small-wheeled suitcases
- 💡If you want a brand-new room, a spa and pool, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain views · This is a heritage building inside the old town, with no resort pool or spa, and a few rooms that show their age · Fix → for a luxury resort with mountain views and a spa, look at the InterContinental Lijiang Ancient Town or the Pullman Lijiang Resort & Spa in our list
- 💡If you're a light sleeper or worried about noise · At night the old town has a bar street (酒吧街) that's loud until late, and rooms near that zone can hear the music · Fix → request a room facing the inner courtyard or on the side farthest from the bar street when you book, and pack earplugs just in case
- 💡If you have large bags or mobility limits · The old town is walk-only — no cars — with uneven cobblestones that make small-wheeled suitcases hard, and Lijiang sits at around 2,400 m, so you may tire easily at first · Fix → tell the hotel ahead so they bring a porter cart to the gate for your bags, and take the first day slowly to let your body adjust