What to see in Nan
An old town, a whispered love story & mountains that make you stay

Picture this: you are standing in front of a cruciform hall set on the backs of two nagas, with staircases climbing it from all four sides, and inside the walls are covered with old murals telling Jataka tales and scenes of old Nan life. This is Wat Phumin, the temple that is the face of Nan, built in the late 19th century. The highlight everyone hunts for is the Pu Man Ya Man mural, the Whisper of Love — a man whispering in a woman's ear, one of the most recognised murals in Thailand. Entry is free, with a donation box if you would like to give. It is a working temple, so dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered. Make it your first stop in the old town.

Across the Nan River to the southeast, about 3 km from town and up on a low hill, is Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, the holiest temple in the province and the year-temple for those born in the Year of the Rabbit. Its Lanna-style chedi is clad in gold and stands out from a distance, with a long naga staircase leading up and the main viharn in front of it. It is an old temple the people of Nan hold in great respect, so dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered; it is free to enter. In the soft light of late afternoon the gold chedi looks its best, and it pairs well with the temples in town.

On a low hill to the west of town is Wat Phra That Khao Noi, the best viewpoint over Nan. Climb the naga staircase or drive up to the terrace at the top and you reach a large golden standing Buddha facing out over the town, with a panorama of Nan and the surrounding hills laid out in front of you. It is lovely at sunrise, when mist drifts over the town, and again in the late afternoon before sunset. It is a working temple, free to enter, so dress modestly. Come in the morning or evening to avoid the harsh midday sun and catch the best light.

In the centre of the old town, in a building that was once the palace of Nan's ruling family, is the Nan National Museum, which keeps the history, art and ways of life of Nan and the Tai Lue. The standout piece people come to see is the black elephant tusk, a rare pitch-black tusk that is a treasure of the province. In front of the museum is the frangipani tunnel, a row of frangipani trees whose branches lean together into an arch — a much-loved photo spot that almost everyone in Nan stops at. There is a small entry fee (check on arrival), and it is an easy walk from Wat Phumin.

A lot of Nan's charm is in the old town itself, which is easy to wander on foot. The main streets around Wat Phumin and the museum are lined with old temples, wooden houses, cafés and craft shops. After dark on Friday to Sunday, the street in front of Wat Phumin turns into the Nan Walking Street (Kad Khuang Mueang), with local food, handicrafts, woven textiles and, in places, khantoke-style dining where you sit on mats to eat the northern way. It has an easy, unhurried northern-town feel that never gets crowded, and it is free to walk. It is fair to say it only comes alive on weekend nights, and the town is very quiet on weekdays. For what to actually eat, see the Nan food guide.

Another heart of Nan is its Tai Lue culture, an ethnic group who migrated from Sipsongpanna and settled around Pua and Tha Wang Pha. They have their own temple style, with distinctive low, sweeping roofs, and they are best known for the flowing-water weave (lai nam lai), a winding pattern like running water that is a signature of Nan. Several villages still weave by hand and welcome you in to watch, and you can pick up a woven sarong or scarf to take home. We write about this Tai Lue heritage with respect — it is a living community that still carries on the weaving. It sits in the same zone as the Pua rice terraces, so most people do both together.

Up in the hills east of Nan town is Doi Phu Kha National Park, a big mountain park with a dramatic ridge-top road that winds past viewpoints and seas of mist. Its claim to fame is the Chompoo Phu Kha, a rare tree found here that blooms pink for a short window around February. Be honest with yourself about the drive: it is steep with a lot of curves, so bring motion-sickness tablets if you are prone to it, and you need a car or motorbike of your own (fill the tank, fuel is far apart) or a tour. During the bloom it gets busy and rooms around Pua fill up fast, so book ahead. Most people pair it with Bo Kluea and Pua.

Deeper into the mountains beyond Doi Phu Kha is the district of Bo Kluea, with something you will not find anywhere else — ancient rock-salt wells, brine springs that rise from underground high in the mountains, far from any sea. Villagers draw the brine up and boil it in big pans until it crystallises into salt, a craft handed down over centuries. You can watch the salt-boiling (the active boiling tends to be in the dry season) and buy mountain salt to take home. It is fair to say it is far and the mountain road is very winding, so you need a car and should allow a full day for the trip. Most people do it on the same route as Doi Phu Kha.

On the way up to Doi Phu Kha you pass through Pua district, known for its terraced rice fields stepping down the hillsides with the Doi Phu Kha ridges behind. They look best when the paddies are green (around August to October) and again as the rice turns golden before harvest. Around here are several rice-field cafés where you can sit with a cup of Nan hill coffee and look out over the paddies and mountains (there are a number of them spread along the roads — just stop wherever you like the look of). Pua is also a centre of Tai Lue culture and the gateway to Doi Phu Kha and Bo Kluea, so people often stay a night here before heading further up. A car or motorbike is the easiest way.

If you have a spare day and want to go slow and quiet, Ban Sapan is the answer — a small village in a valley in the Bo Kluea area, with a clear stream running through it, terraced fields, and mountains all around. It is a favourite with slow-travellers, who come to stay a night just to listen to the stream and watch the morning mist. Nearby there are more places to pause along the way, such as Ban Sop Khun, viewpoints and several Tai Lue temples. It is fair to say everything up here is far and the roads wind, so you need a car and should allow time; if you would rather not drive yourself, a tour or a car with a driver is easier. We have split out the route detail on the 3-day itinerary.