One hour from Taipei by Puyuma Express · Jiaoxi's rare sodium-bicarbonate springs · Luodong Night Market — livelier than anything in the capital · Wufengqi waterfall and Turtle Island dolphin watching right on the doorstep
Yilan County stretches from the northeast tip of Taiwan down the Pacific coast, sheltered by the Central Mountain Range. It is notoriously wet — which is why it stays so green — but its rice paddies, hot spring towns, and uncommonly genuine night market culture make it one of the most rewarding short breaks from Taipei. Jiaoxi town gives you hot springs and Wufengqi waterfall. Luodong gives you one of Taiwan's top night markets. The coast gives you surfing at Wai'ao and dolphin watching near Turtle Island. You can sensibly see all three in a two-night trip.
Yilan County has three main bases. Your choice depends on whether you've come primarily for the hot springs, the night market, or the coast.
Taiwan's most accessible hot spring town — 10 minutes from the freeway exit. Almost every hotel here has private in-room onsen tubs fed by sodium-bicarbonate spring water. Foot-bath streets let you soak for free. Wufengqi waterfall hike starts here too.
The county's commercial heart, home to Luodong Night Market — the most famous in Yilan. Also the base for the National Center for Traditional Arts (a large and genuinely interesting venue). Fewer hot spring hotels but more dining variety.
The county capital is quieter than Jiaoxi or Luodong — good for those who want a more local feel. The nearby coast at Wai'ao and Zhuangwei provides Taiwan's best surfing beaches and uncrowded stretches of Pacific shore.
Su'ao sits at the southern end of the county where the railway hugs the Pacific cliffs toward Hualien. Its cold spring baths (naturally carbonated, not hot) are one of Asia's genuine curiosities. Good add-on for a 3D/2N trip.
3 curated hotel roundups · 8 individual reviews across Yilan · from Silks Place luxury to wallet-friendly Just Sleep Jiaoxi.
Across all three towns — hot spring luxury, reliable mid-range, and budget beds. Compare prices across 3 platforms.
The flagship luxury hotel in the county — connected to Yilan Train Station and adjacent to the National Center for Traditional Arts. Enormous hot spring pool complex, immaculate service, and one of the best hotel breakfasts in eastern Taiwan.
Post-modern Zen resort positioned on the hillside at the edge of the Wufengqi scenic zone. Private in-room hot spring tubs, two restaurants, and a full spa. Guests consistently praise the dinner buffet and the mountain views from upper-floor rooms.
The more accessible sibling of Silks Place — focused specifically on the Jiaoxi hot spring experience. In-room spring tubs, a relaxed garden atmosphere, and the Silks standard of service at a more reasonable price point.
A Japanese-themed hot spring hotel drawing on Yamagata prefecture's onsen culture. Tatami-influenced rooms, yukata in-room, and private tubs fed by Jiaoxi's sodium-bicarbonate spring. A favourite for couples seeking an intimate ryokan atmosphere without going to Japan.
Low-rise resort surrounded by working rice paddies with mountain views. Popular with families and those who want space and greenery over city-centre convenience. Large hot spring pool area, outdoor garden, and cycling rentals on-site.
The Just Sleep brand's Jiaoxi outpost delivers the chain's trademark clean design and well-maintained rooms, steps from Jiaoxi Station. Shared hot spring bath facilities are available, keeping the price reasonable for those who don't need a private tub.
A smaller design-led property in Jiaoxi that draws guests looking for something with character rather than scale. Well-appointed rooms, thoughtful communal spaces, and a strong local following — book ahead at weekends.
A solid mid-range choice for those pairing their Yilan trip with a visit to the world-acclaimed Kavalan Whisky Distillery nearby. Clean rooms, competitive pricing, and easy access to Yilan City's main sights and the Dongshan River cycling corridor.
Jiaoxi fills up fast on Friday and Saturday nights year-round, and during Golden Week (early October) and Chinese New Year prices can more than double. Book at least 2–3 weeks ahead for weekend stays.
Yilan has an unusually strong culinary identity for a county its size. The famous Sanxing scallion, the angelica mutton soup, and the smoked cherry duck are products of this specific landscape — you won't find them this good anywhere else in Taiwan.
The Sanxing (三星) scallion is unusually sweet and crisp — a product of Yilan's volcanic soil and abundant rainfall. The simplest preparation, the scallion pancake (蔥油餅), is the benchmark dish. Every night market stall has one; the quality gap between them is enormous.
#1 Must-TryA restorative hot pot featuring mutton braised with angelica root (當歸) and Chinese medicinal herbs in a pale, rich broth. The dish dates back to Yilan's Han Chinese settler communities who kept goats on the plains. Available year-round but perfect on cold evenings.
Luodong Night MarketYilan's cherry duck (bred for pale, delicate meat) is cold-smoked over wood chips and served sliced with a sweet dipping sauce. One of the signature products at Luodong Night Market and at Yilan specialty restaurants. Order it as a main or sliced cold at a stall.
Local SpecialtyYilan's largest night market and many Taiwanese people's favourite in the whole country. More local, less tourist-curated than Shilin or Raohe in Taipei. The braised pork rice, taro balls, and grilled seafood are the benchmarks here. Go hungry and go slow.
Every EveningAn Yilan novelty that you will either love or strongly dislike: vanilla-style ice cream rolled in a wafer cone with a large sprig of fresh cilantro (香菜). The aromatic herb against the sweet cream is surprisingly pleasant. Available along Toucheng Old Street and at several Luodong stalls.
Yilan SpecialtyTaiwan's largest Pacific fishing port, where the morning catch is sold directly from the boats. The seafood restaurants around the harbour serve outstandingly fresh bluefin tuna, mackerel, and flying fish. Worth a half-day trip for anyone who takes seafood seriously.
Day TripYilan is Taiwan's primary kumquat (金棗) growing county. The small citrus is candied, brewed into tea, made into jam, or infused into liqueur. You'll find it packaged as gifts throughout the county — the candied version makes an excellent and very packable souvenir.
Best SouvenirA thin, wide, oval cracker — the shape gives it its name — made with sesame and a faint sweetness. A Toucheng Old Street institution that dates back several generations. The freshly-baked version from a street-side oven is incomparably better than the packaged variety.
Toucheng Old StreetInstant noodles cooked in Su'ao's naturally cold carbonated spring water — the bubbles keep the water slightly acidic, changing the texture of the noodles. It sounds gimmicky; it actually tastes different. Part of the full Su'ao cold spring experience.
Su'ao Cold SpringFrom soaking foot baths and three-tier waterfalls to whale-watching boats and a whisky distillery that consistently beats Scotland — Yilan punches well above its county size. See our full Yilan attractions guide for deeper coverage of each.
The heart of Jiaoxi's hot spring culture — a public park with steaming channels and foot-soaking pools fed by the town's signature sodium-bicarbonate spring. Completely free, open all day, and one of the most pleasant ways to spend an hour in Taiwan.
Free to EnterThree tiers of waterfall dropping a combined 100 metres through forested mountains above Jiaoxi. The lower tier is an easy 10-minute walk from the trailhead car park; the upper tiers require a moderately strenuous 45-minute hike. Rewarding and rarely overcrowded before 10am.
Jiaoxi Day HikeYilan's tea-growing slopes glow a deep jade green in spring and early summer. The Dongshan (冬山) area tea gardens offer a quiet antidote to the tourist circuit, with small teahouses serving freshly-picked Yilan oolong and views across the Lanyang Plain to the sea.
Tea & SceneryA striking Pritzker Prize-associated building whose form echoes the tilted rock strata of the local coastline. The exhibition inside covers Yilan's natural history, indigenous Kavalan heritage, marine ecology, and the county's rice and tea farming traditions in unusually thoughtful depth.
Culture & ArchitectureThe distinctive volcanic island 10 km offshore that forms the visual centrepiece of the Yilan coastline. Dolphin and whale-watching boats depart from Wushih Harbour (Wai'ao) in the morning from April to October. Bottlenose dolphins are reliable; sperm whales are occasionally seen.
April–OctoberThe go-to surf spot for Taipei's wave-riders — consistent swells, board rental shacks, and a much less crowded environment than beaches closer to the capital. Not ideal for swimming (rip currents present), but surfing lessons are available from the beach operators for beginners.
SurfingA preserved Qing dynasty commercial street flanked by traditional shophouse facades, temples, and small family businesses. Famous for the cow tongue biscuit bakers and its historic Dongshan River lantern festival connections. Quiet compared to Luodong — pleasant in the morning.
History WalkYilan City's beloved public park celebrating the illustrated works of Jimmy (幾米), one of Taiwan's most treasured picture-book artists. Large bronze sculptures from his most famous stories dot the park. Genuinely touching whether or not you know the books — a favourite with all ages.
Family FavouriteTaiwan's most celebrated whisky distillery, producer of bottles that have beaten Scotch benchmarks in international blind tastings. Free guided tours run throughout the day with tasting samples. The on-site shop has expressions not sold anywhere else. Book ahead for weekend tours.
Award-WinningA large, well-maintained living museum of Taiwanese folk arts — traditional opera, puppetry, craft workshops, and old-street architecture on a riverside setting. More engaging than it sounds; allow 2–3 hours. Conveniently located next to Silks Place Yilan hotel.
Half-Day ActivityA flat, scenic cycling route that traces the Dongshan River through rice paddies and along the riverbank, passing the National Center for Traditional Arts and connecting to the Luodong Forest Park. Bikes are easily rented from shops near Luodong Station. Best in the golden-hour light of late afternoon.
CyclingOne of only two naturally-occurring cold carbonate springs in the world (the other is in Italy). Water stays at around 22°C year-round — bracingly cold in summer, surprisingly appealing in comparison to the county's hot springs. Public pools and private tub options are available in town.
World RarityYilan is flexible — a tight day trip works well if you concentrate on Jiaoxi. Two nights lets you add the coast and Luodong Night Market. Three days covers the whole county at a relaxed pace.
Getting there, getting around, weather honest talk, and the honest caveats that most guides skip.
The Puyuma Express is the only train that covers Taipei–Jiaoxi in 1 hour 05 minutes. Seats require reservations and sell out 2–4 days ahead for Saturday departures. Book through the TRA app or at any railway station counter. The Tze-Chiang (自強) express takes about 1h 20min to Yilan City and is usually easier to book.
Between towns (Jiaoxi–Luodong–Yilan City), local TRA trains run frequently (NT$15–35) and are the simplest option. Taxis cost NT$300–500 between towns. Scooter rental is possible in Jiaoxi and Luodong — useful for reaching Wai'ao Beach and the Dongshan River. A YouBike-style bike share operates in Yilan City for short distances.
The northeast monsoon hits Yilan harder than anywhere else in Taiwan, with Jiaoxi recording among the highest annual rainfall on the island. Between October and January, expect rain most afternoons. March and April offer a reasonable window before summer heat. Bring a waterproof layer regardless of season — hot spring hotels are far more enjoyable when it's raining outside anyway.
Beitou's springs are sulfuric and acidic — they have a distinctive smell and can irritate sensitive skin. Jiaoxi's springs are sodium-bicarbonate: colorless, odorless, slightly alkaline, and exceptionally silky. Many hotels include private in-room tubs fed directly by the spring; check this specifically when booking, as not all Jiaoxi hotels offer it.
Click any pin to see what's there — plan your route across Jiaoxi, Luodong, and the coast.
Yilan is Taiwan's best-kept short-break secret. A Puyuma Express seat, a Jiaoxi hotel with an in-room tub, and a night at Luodong Night Market is all it takes to understand why Taipei residents treat it as their own private backyard.
A good trip doesn't end at one city — 3 Taiwan destinations easily reached from Yilan.