What to see in Trang (besides the islands)
Thailand's food-loving Andaman town — a cave you boat through, waterfalls, an old town

Picture this: a small longtail boat gliding into a cave with a stream running through it, the ceiling crowded with stalactites and stalagmites in odd shapes. In places the cave opens into a wide rock chamber; in others the roof drops so low and the dark so total that the boatman has everyone lie flat in the boat to slip through — that's Tham Le Khao Kob, a natural highlight you won't easily find elsewhere. Kids are thrilled and adults hold their breath. It's a short trip, about 30–40 minutes, and well worth it, sitting not far north of Trang town, easy to slot in on the way.

Pak Meng is a long mainland beach that doubles as a local hangout and the main pier out to the islands. The spot everyone photographs is Hua Hin (Khao Meng), a limestone crag standing in the sea just off the beach, shaped like a crouching sphinx — lovely from the sand, especially at dusk. The beachfront has seafood restaurants and a line of casuarina pines to sit under, and it's part of Hat Chao Mai National Park, which covers Trang's prettier stretches of coast. The water at Pak Meng isn't island-clear, but the beach atmosphere and the crag out in the sea are worth the stop.

Beyond Pak Meng, the Trang coast within Hat Chao Mai National Park has more quiet beaches and viewpoints to pull over for — long stretches of sand with barely anyone on them, oddly shaped limestone peaks rising out of the sea, and points where you can see the islands lined up across the Andaman. It suits anyone after a calm coast with no crowds and no strip of shops. Driving the shore and stopping for photos at one spot after another is an easy pleasure. Some beaches are sea-turtle nesting grounds and protected, so visit with respect and leave no litter.

Trang town is small enough to see in half a day on foot. The usual starting point is the clock tower in the centre, the landmark everyone photographs. Around it spreads an old quarter still lined with pastel Sino-Portuguese shophouses, traces of the boom years as a port and a rubber town, dotted with old Chinese shrines that speak to the town's Chinese-Thai roots, and traditional kopi coffee shops open for decades. Wander, sip a coffee, take in the architecture — and stop for dim sum at an old shop in the same few streets.

You can't talk about Trang without the food — it's the main reason people travel here. The headliner is Trang roast pork (moo yang), crisp-skinned pork that locals eat with morning coffee or alongside dim sum; then dim sum, southern-style, in shops that open before dawn; kopi coffee, the strong traditional brew; and Trang cake, a favourite to take home. After dark there's a night market and a walking street (on certain days) for well-priced street food. Come to Trang with an appetite — there's something good to eat at every hour.

For a cool forest swim out of the heat, Ton Te is the answer — a tall waterfall dropping off a cliff in the Banthat range, with a pool to swim in and shady green forest all around. It's a short walk from the car park to the lower tier, and the fit can climb to the upper levels for the view. It's a weekend escape for Trang locals. In the rainy season (May–Oct) the water is full and powerful — gorgeous, but mind the slippery rock — while in the dry season the water is clear but thinner. Check the water and the trail before you go, and visit with respect for the forest.

The name says it — "Roi Chan Phan Wang," a hundred tiers and a thousand pools — a waterfall that steps down in tier after tier along a forest stream, each with its own little pool to dip into, in cool, shady surroundings. It's a place to stroll and explore level by level rather than one big single drop. Another natural spot in the Banthat range that Trang locals like, it's quieter and less busy than the famous falls. Anyone who enjoys an easy forest walk and photographing running water will love it. The wet season brings the most water and the best show, though the path can be slippery, so come prepared with the right shoes.

End a day out with a warm soak to ease the aches. Trang has natural hot springs at a few spots out of town, where warm water from underground collects in pools to soak in or dip your feet. Some are tidy concrete pools with seating; others are still natural pools beside a stream. They're a good stop after a day at the waterfalls or in the forest, an easy activity for any age. I'll note the springs vary in condition and facilities from one to the next, so it's worth checking which are open and which suits you before setting out.

Trang has long roots in rubber — Thailand's first rubber tree is said to have been planted in Trang. Out beyond the town the land turns to green rubber plantations in rows to the horizon, and you'll see the early-morning tapping along the roadside. The nearby nature spot is Khao Chong, with a botanic garden, shady rainforest, small waterfalls and nature trails. It suits anyone who wants to understand Trang beyond the sea. Driving through the plantations for a photo, then taking an easy forest walk at Khao Chong, makes for a quiet day with a real southern-town feel.

Trang's Chinese-Thai roots show most clearly in its old Chinese shrines, several around town and out in the districts, decorated with dragons, red lanterns and fine Chinese woodwork. The year's highlight is the Vegetarian Festival (the Nine Emperor Gods festival) around September–October, when the whole town goes meat-free, hangs yellow flags, and holds lively processions and rituals at the shrines. Time your visit to it and you'll see southern Chinese-Thai culture at full tilt. Outside the festival you can still drop in to pay respects and admire the shrine architecture — another angle on why Trang eats so well and holds its Chinese heritage so close.

Once you've done the mainland, the real reason Trang is famous is the islands — Koh Mook, with its Emerald Cave (Tham Morakot), where you swim about 80 metres through a dark sea cave into a hidden cliff-ringed beach; Koh Kradan, white sand and clear water, rated among the finest beaches and host to an underwater wedding every Valentine's; Koh Ngai, clear water and good snorkelling; and Koh Libong, home to Thailand's largest herd of dugongs. I'll be honest, the islands only work well in the dry season (Nov–Apr), when the sea is calm and the boats all run. Boats leave from Pak Meng and Hat Yao piers, and we've put it all in a separate islands guide.