Plenty of travellers still ask, "Didn't Tokyo's fish market close?" The honest answer: there are now two. Tsukiji's Outer Market is still open for morning sushi and walk-and-eat stalls, while the new Toyosu Market is where you actually watch the tuna auction. Here's the full comparison on one page — how they differ, how to get there, what time to go, what to eat, and how to see the auction.
This has confused visitors for years, because the headlines all said "Tsukiji Fish Market has closed." What actually closed and moved was the inner market — the wholesale auction operation — which relocated to Toyosu in October 2018. The Tsukiji Outer Market, packed with sushi counters, walk-and-eat stalls, and kitchenware shops, is still open in exactly the same spot.
The simplest way to think about it: if you want to eat, go to Tsukiji. If you want to see the tuna auction in action, go to Toyosu. And if you only have one early morning, we'll show you how to fit both into a single trip.
Two markets, two cards — who each suits, opening hours, access, and the standout draw of each. (Updated for 2026 — individual shop hours vary, so double-check before you go.)
🍣 Outer Market · Still Open
A still-buzzing market on the edge of Ginza. Wander the narrow lanes grazing on counter sushi, skewered tamagoyaki omelette, grilled seafood, and Japanese kitchenware all in one place. Best for people who'd rather eat than watch an auction.
🐟 New Auction Market
The modern bayfront wholesale market that inherited the auction from Tsukiji in 2018. Clean, climate-controlled halls, dedicated visitor walkways for watching the tuna auction through glass, legendary dawn sushi counters — plus the new Senkyaku Banrai complex with an onsen and Edo-style food street.
Still on the fence? Run through these four scenarios and you'll know instantly which market is yours.
Head to the Tsukiji Outer Market between 9 and 11am and graze your way through sushi, tamagoyaki, and grilled seafood at a relaxed pace. No pre-sunrise alarm needed.
It has to be Toyosu — arrive before 5am and watch free from the second-floor walkway, or enter the lottery for the closer first-floor deck.
Go to Toyosu and add the Senkyaku Banrai complex — Edo-style food stalls, a rooftop with bay views, and the Manyo Club hot spring.
Start at Toyosu at 5am for the auction and a sushi breakfast, then ride the Yurikamome back to explore Tsukiji mid-morning.
The whole charm of Tsukiji is the "eat as you walk" rhythm — narrow lanes lined with tiny stalls, one after another. Start with a fat piece of counter sushi, move on to a hot skewer of sweet tamagoyaki omelette, then a butter-grilled scallop, fresh sea urchin (uni) over rice, and a giant seasonal strawberry. Most of it is grab-and-eat, standing right where you bought it.
Beyond food, you'll find shops selling Japanese knives, chopsticks, pots, and chef-grade kitchen gear that cooks fly in for. If you walk from Ginza along Harumi-dori, it takes only about 15 minutes — and you'll pass the Kabukiza Theatre on the way.
Toyosu is a modern wholesale market split across several buildings (the tuna building, the general seafood building, and the fruit-and-veg building), linked by visitor walkways up above. The headline draw is the tuna auction — buyers shine torches into the flesh to judge quality, then bid fast and loud, with whole frozen tuna lined up in their hundreds across the floor.
There are two ways to watch — the free second-floor walkway (no booking), which looks down through glass for the full overview, and the closer first-floor deck (free, but lottery-only), just one level above the auction floor for a much nearer view. Afterwards, grab dawn sushi from a market restaurant, and if you're still going, walk over to the new Senkyaku Banrai complex (opened early 2024), which recreates an Edo-era street with around 70 eateries, a rooftop with bay views, and the Manyo Club onsen using hot-spring water trucked in from Hakone and Yugawara.
Two options — a free, no-booking view, and a closer view that needs a lottery booking in advance. Choose based on how near you want to be and whether you can plan ahead.
No booking needed. Opens at 5am, looking down through glass from about three levels above the auction floor — you see the whole hall at once. Come early for a spot at the glass. Perfect if you decide to go on the spur of the moment.
Just one level above the auction floor behind a glass screen, for a much nearer view. About 100 people per day in roughly 45-minute slots. Winners should arrive by 5:30am (aim for 5:15).
Apply free on the official Toyosu Market website about a month ahead. The application window is the first week of the preceding month (open around 7 days); you can pick up to 3 dates and list up to 5 people per application.
If you'd rather not gamble on the lottery — or want a guide to explain it all — several morning tours combine Toyosu, a sushi tasting, and Tsukiji. You can book these ahead through tour platforms.
Several morning tours walk you through Toyosu for the auction atmosphere, then a dawn sushi tasting and a stroll through the Tsukiji Outer Market — all with a guide to explain it. Compare options and book ahead on Klook.
The two markets sit on opposite sides of the bay, about 15–20 minutes apart by train — see how they line up against Ginza and the key stations to plan a single-morning loop.
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Find Hotels →Open the full Tokyo city guide for hotels, food, and itineraries — or start searching for a stay in Ginza or Tsukiji, an easy few-minute walk from the Outer Market.