Kikunoya — the best-value onsen ryokan with Torii views on Miyajima Island
If you want the full Miyajima ryokan experience — outdoor onsen, sea views, and a kaiseki dinner — without paying the very top of the market, Kikunoya is the name that keeps coming up. With a score of 9.1 from 1,894 Booking reviews, starting from ¥22,000 per night for two (including kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast), it sits on a quiet hillside close to the forest, just a 5-minute walk from Itsukushima Shrine.
Kikunoya sits on a quiet hillside on Miyajima Island, far enough from the busy lanes near the shrine entrance that you feel genuinely removed from the tourist crowds — yet close enough to reach Itsukushima Shrine on foot in five minutes. That balance is rare on this island. Guests who have stayed here say the same thing: just stepping outside and seeing the wide-open sea view in silence made it feel worthwhile before they had even unpacked.
"The outdoor onsen is beautiful, the rock garden is serene, the room was clean, the sea view was better than expected, and the kaiseki dinner was genuinely delicious — excellent value for the price on Miyajima Island."
The centrepiece of Kikunoya is its outdoor onsen built from marble, surrounded by a Japanese rock garden using Iyo Oshima stones sourced from the Seto Inland Sea. The bath area is open and airy, with a calm atmosphere that encourages you to stay longer than planned. What distinguishes this from a standard onsen is the care taken with the materials and the layout around it — this isn't just a tub of hot water but a space designed to feel genuinely restorative.
The guest rooms follow traditional Japanese style, and many face the Seto Inland Sea. Several rooms offer a view of the iconic Torii Gate of Itsukushima Shrine through the window — one of the most recognisable images in all of Japan, and a view most travellers have on their wish list long before they arrive. Note that Torii-view rooms are priced noticeably above the standard rooms, so factor that into your budget when booking.
Kaiseki dinner at Kikunoya features fresh seafood sourced from the Seto Inland Sea — fish and shellfish served according to the season. In Japan, kaiseki is inseparable from the ryokan experience; it is built into the price of the room, along with a Japanese-style breakfast the following morning. Guests consistently mention the meals as one of the highlights of their stay, and several say the food alone was reason enough to return.
It is worth being straightforward about what Kikunoya is not. This is not a five-star luxury resort. The onsen uses heated water rather than a natural hot spring, and the hillside location means a short uphill walk from the main street. For guests whose priority is the most luxurious ryokan experience regardless of price, there are other options. But for travellers with a budget of around ¥22,000 per night for two who want a beautiful outdoor onsen, sea views, quiet surroundings, and good kaiseki — Kikunoya is the strongest value in the category.
A score of 9.1 from 1,894 Booking reviews is not an easy number to maintain for a small ryokan on a tourist island. It reflects the fact that the vast majority of guests receive what they expected — and often a little more. If the plan is to wake up on Miyajima, slip into the onsen before the first ferry arrives, and then walk to the shrine while the island is still quiet, Kikunoya is designed for exactly that morning.
For anyone visiting Hiroshima and wondering whether to stay on the mainland or cross to the island, staying at Kikunoya answers the question clearly: having a night on Miyajima is a different experience entirely from a day trip, and this ryokan captures the essence of that difference at a price that makes it genuinely accessible.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Marble outdoor onsen with Iyo Oshima rock garden — beautiful and peaceful
- ✓ Many rooms overlook the Seto Inland Sea and Torii Gate
- ✓ Quiet hillside setting close to the forest, yet 5 min walk to the shrine
- ✓ Kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast included — best value in the onsen ryokan category
- ! Uphill walk required — a short climb from the main street
- ! Torii-view rooms cost noticeably more than standard rooms
- ! Heated-water onsen — not a natural hot spring (jionsen)
- ✓ Score 9.1 from 1,894 Booking reviews — verified by real guests
- ✓ Quiet, forested setting well away from daytime crowds
- ✓ Kaiseki is fresh and seasonal with Seto Inland Sea produce
- ✓ 5-minute walk to Itsukushima Shrine — no need to rush out early
- ! No car parking (private vehicles not permitted on the island)
- ! Traditional Japanese rooms — sleeping on futons on the floor, no raised beds
- ! Access requires a JR Ferry from Miyajimaguchi (~10 min)
- 💡If you need a natural hot spring — Kikunoya uses heated water, not a geothermal onsen → if authentic jionsen is essential, confirm with the property directly before booking.
- 💡If mobility is a concern or you have heavy luggage — the property is on a hillside with an uphill approach → contact the ryokan in advance; some properties can assist with bags or arrange a transfer.
- 💡If a Torii-view room is important to you — request it explicitly at booking, as those rooms are limited and priced higher than standard rooms → book 2-3 months ahead during sakura (Mar-Apr) and autumn foliage (Oct-Nov).