ARASHIYAMA BENKEI — a 160-year-old ryokan on the Togetsukyo riverbank that guests say is better value than it first appears
Picture lying on a futon in a tatami room, eyes drifting to Togetsukyo — Kyoto's iconic arched wooden bridge — floating above the Oi River in the golden evening light. That's not advertising copy; it's what guests who choose a Riverside Suite at ARASHIYAMA BENKEI have been talking about for generations. This ryokan is not simply a place to sleep — it is a full traditional Japanese experience, handed down within the same family since 1862, now in its fifth generation, with 12-course kaiseki and a complete Japanese breakfast built into the price.
ARASHIYAMA BENKEI stands at 34 Susukinobaba-cho on the north bank of the Togetsukyo Bridge, meaning a two-minute walk from the front door brings you to the most photographed spot in Arashiyama. Another ten minutes on foot puts you at the Sagano Bamboo Grove. To find a location this close to both landmarks — at a price that already includes two meals — is genuinely rare in this neighbourhood, and guests who have stayed here understand that advantage immediately.
"A truly traditional ryokan open since 1862, still in the hands of the founding family. The 12-course kaiseki features fresh ayu from the Oi River — many guests say it was the best meal of their entire Japan trip."
The heart of ARASHIYAMA BENKEI is its 12-course kaiseki dinner, included in the room rate at no extra charge — not a stripped-back package deal, but a full kaiseki that this ryokan has been proud to serve across many generations. The standout is the fresh ayu (sweet river fish) from the Oi River, a signature dish impossible to find elsewhere in the city. If you want the freshest version, plan your visit for July or August when the ayu season peaks.
The other meal guests consistently rave about is the full Japanese breakfast, also included in the rate. This is not merely rice porridge and a pickle — it is a proper traditional Japanese hotel breakfast, served beautifully on a wooden tray. Having two such meals delivered to you each day, either in the dining room or in your own tatami room, is what makes guests feel they have genuinely experienced Japan rather than simply passed through it.
On the rooms — the Tatami Standard (25 sq m) starting at ¥48,000/night faces the garden side, which means it does not overlook the river. If the Togetsukyo view that features so prominently in the property's appeal is what you are after, you need to book a Riverside Suite at a higher price. That is worth knowing clearly before you reserve so that expectations are set correctly. That said, every room category gives you a genuine tatami atmosphere, a futon, a yukata in the wardrobe, and the omotenashi hospitality that only a ryokan of this standing can deliver.
One thing a fair number of guests flag as worth understanding in advance is the ryokan's house customs — for instance, wearing a yukata after dinner, which is a long-standing tradition here. Some guests love it as an integral part of the experience; others find it feels slightly more ceremonial than they expected. If you see it as part of what you are paying for, you will enjoy it. If you would prefer more flexibility, a more modern hotel property might suit you better.
Getting here is straightforward — the closest station is Arashiyama on the Randen (Keifuku) line, an eight-minute walk away, or Saga-Arashiyama on the JR Sagano Line at twelve minutes. Both connect back to central Kyoto without difficulty. Guests staying here rarely need transport within Arashiyama itself, as the key sights — Togetsukyo, Tenryu-ji Temple, and the Bamboo Grove — are all within easy walking distance.
Anyone looking at ¥48,000 per night and pausing should recalculate: that rate already covers 12-course kaiseki plus a full Japanese breakfast. Eating those two meals independently at comparable quality elsewhere in the area would easily cost ¥10,000–¥15,000 per person on top of any hotel bill. Seen that way, ARASHIYAMA BENKEI offers considerably more value than the headline price suggests — provided you are here for a genuine traditional Japanese stay, not simply a bed at a competitive rate.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Traditional ryokan since 1862 — five generations of the founding family, genuinely authentic
- ✓ 12-course kaiseki + full Japanese breakfast included in the room rate
- ✓ 2-min walk to Togetsukyo Bridge · 10 min to Sagano Bamboo Grove
- ✓ Riverside Suite rooms overlook Togetsukyo and the surrounding mountains
- ! Standard room at ¥48,000 faces the garden — no river view; Riverside upgrade needed
- ! Private open-air onsen only from Special Room class upwards
- ! Traditional ryokan customs (e.g. wearing yukata after dinner) — some guests find it overly ceremonial
- ✓ Fresh ayu from the Oi River in the kaiseki — a signature course unavailable anywhere else nearby
- ✓ Full tatami + yukata + omotenashi hospitality — the complete traditional ryokan experience
- ✓ Walking distance to Togetsukyo, Bamboo Grove and Tenryu-ji Temple
- ✓ Full Japanese breakfast included — no need to go out and find food in the morning
- ! Standard rooms face the garden and do not overlook the river — river-view requires upgrading
- ! Per-night rate is high even accounting for the two included meals
- ! Check-in at 15:00 — arriving earlier means storing bags and waiting
- 💡If you want a Togetsukyo river view from your room — the Standard room at ¥48,000 faces the garden, not the river → you need to book a Riverside Suite, which is priced higher; specify this clearly when reserving.
- 💡If you want a private open-air onsen in your room — this is only available from the Special Room class upwards (around ¥85,000) → check the full room list and current prices on Agoda or Booking before deciding.
- 💡If you prefer a relaxed, rule-free stay — this ryokan follows genuine traditional customs such as wearing yukata after dinner → if that feels too formal, The Hotel Ranzan or a modern hotel nearby will suit you better.