8 Dishes to Try Before You Leave Ottawa
Ordered by how uniquely they belong to the city — the dishes that tell the story of its two cultures.
1
This is the dish born in Ottawa that went national — a flat, stretched fried dough shaped like a beaver's tail, fried crisp outside and soft inside, dusted with classic cinnamon sugar or topped with Nutella, banana-chocolate, apple cinnamon, or Killaloe Sunrise (lemon and cinnamon). President Obama once stopped to eat one at ByWard Market, and that topping is now called "The Obama." In winter the Rideau Canal becomes a skating rink and people eat hot BeaverTails as they skate — it's the Ottawa image everyone remembers.
2
Ottawa borders Quebec, poutine's birthplace — so the poutine here is closer to the original than elsewhere in Ontario. Hot fries smothered in dark gravy until the cheese curds start to melt but keep that squeaky chew. The trick is fresh squeaky curds and gravy hot enough. Cross the bridge to Gatineau (Quebec) for an even more authentic, tastier version. Many city spots have creative toppings, but the plain classic is still best for first-timers.
3
Ottawans half-jokingly call shawarma the city's unofficial dish — there are shops open late everywhere and people eat it almost daily. Ottawa has a large Lebanese and Middle Eastern community, so the shawarma here is authentic and good. Spit-roasted spiced meat (chicken or beef), thinly sliced and wrapped with rich garlic toum, pink pickled turnip, veggies, and fries. Vegetarians can pick falafel (fried chickpea balls) at any shop. Filling and cheap — a genuinely Ottawa late-night meal.
4
The maple leaf is on Canada's flag, and maple syrup is genuinely the national flavor — Canada produces over 70% of the world's maple syrup, and Quebec, across the river from Ottawa, is the biggest source. Pour it on pancakes, waffles, or eat it with bacon. Try real Grade A at ByWard Market and you'll see how far it is from supermarket imitation. In late winter to early spring (March), Quebec "sugar shacks" (cabane à sucre) pour hot maple syrup on snow to roll into a lollipop — a must-try experience. Take a small bottle home as a souvenir too.
5
Montreal is just over in Quebec, so Ottawa gets great smoked-meat sandwiches too — beef brisket cured for days in salt and spices, then smoked and steamed until tender, stacked thick on rye with yellow mustard. Similar to pastrami but with a different spice profile. The meat is melt-soft yet still has chew. Order it "medium" (nicely marbled) as the standard. Eat it with a pickle and cherry cola for the classic combo. A hearty, genuinely filling meal.
6
ByWard Market has run since 1826, one of Canada's oldest markets — and it's still the heart of Ottawa's eating life. Outdoor produce stalls, cheese shops, bakeries, the original BeaverTails, multicultural restaurants, and bars that buzz in the evening. Summer brings fresh fruit and flowers, fall brings pumpkins and apples. Wander and graze all day. Great for a food tour and a good starting point for any meal in the city.
7
Ottawa's craft-beer scene has grown fast in recent years — small breweries are scattered across the city and the Gatineau side. Bicycle Craft Brewery and Beyond the Pale are names local beer fans go to. Hoppy IPA, cold lager, and rich stout. Order a flight (a set of small tasting glasses) to try several styles. Taprooms are casual and often have a food truck parked outside. Great for an evening stop after ByWard Market or Parliament Hill.
8
Cross the river from Ottawa to Gatineau (Quebec) and the shop signs turn French — and so do the pastries: buttery flaky croissants, pain au chocolat, tarte aux pommes (apple tart), and sucre à la crème (Quebec cream-sugar fudge). French-style bakeries in Ottawa itself are good too. Have one with a morning café au lait like you're in Paris. It's the French side of the city many people miss, though it's just over the bridge — try a breakfast and you'll understand why Ottawa is a bilingual city.