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🍶 Izakaya Guide · Japan Travel

The Izakaya — A First-Timer's Guide to Japan's Pubs

Ever hesitated at the door of a Japanese pub, unsure how to walk in without feeling awkward — why does a dish you didn't order turn up? How do you order? Where do you pay? This page sorts it all out, from otoshi · your first beer · shared small plates · nomihodai · etiquette, right through to the legendary drinking alleys.

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An Izakaya Is a Japanese Pub —Where Small Plates Get Shared Around the Table

Picture the end of a workday: people in Japan aren't rushing straight home, they're stopping off at an izakaya — somewhere that's half pub, half restaurant, where you sit with a cold beer, order little dishes that land in the middle of the table, and pick at them together while the conversation stretches on. This is the heart of how Japan eats and drinks, and it's nothing like a restaurant back home. It's also where you'll taste the widest range of Japanese food in a single sitting, because everything is built to be ordered in quantity and shared.

But plenty of first-timers feel a little self-conscious walking in for the first time — why is there a small dish I didn't order? Do I order one plate at a time or all at once? What is nomihodai? Where do I pay? On this page we walk you through it step by step, as if a Japanese friend were sitting beside you talking you through it, from your first step inside to the moment you leave — and you'll be enjoying izakaya with total ease.

🍶 Straight up, before anything else: the thing that confuses travellers most is otoshi — the small dish that arrives with your first drink and gets charged at ~300–700 yen per person. A lot of people assume it's a scam, but it's just the normal table/seating charge at most izakaya (much like a cover charge in Europe), not a trick. We'll explain it in detail in the steps below · every price on this page is a rough range, so do check the latest at the venue.
🍻
Drinks Come First
Order a first beer or highball, then start ordering food gradually.
🍢
Small Plates to Share
Order 2–3 dishes at a time into the middle of the table and taste each.
🍵
Otoshi = Normal Cover
An unordered small dish, ~300–700 yen — not a scam.
🧾
Pay at the Counter
Mostly pay on the way out, no tipping, keep cash handy.
Types of Drinking Spot

How Many Kinds of Japanese Pub Are Thereand Which Should You Pick

"Izakaya" is just one of several kinds of drinking spot in Japan, each with its own atmosphere, price, and way of sitting. Knowing them first helps you pick the right one — whether you want to settle in for a long evening, drink quickly standing up, or work your way through a drinking alley.

TypeAtmosphereWhat it's likePrice/personBest for
IzakayaIzakayaSit & dineFull sit-down venue with tables/counters, a long menu, and otoshi~2,500–4,000 yenLong meals in a group
YataiYatai · stallRoadsideRoadside stalls with just a few seats, most famous in Fukuoka (Nakasu/Tenjin)~2,000–3,500 yenLocal atmosphere
TachinomiTachinomi · standingStandingStanding bars, no chairs, quick in and out, often no otoshi or very little~1,000–2,000 yenA quick drink on a budget
YokochoYokocho · drinking alleyNarrow alleyAlleys packed with dozens of tiny bars, such as Omoide Yokocho · Golden GaiVaries by barBar-hopping, moving around
💡 Where should a first-timer start: if it's your first time in Japan, start with a big izakaya chain (like Torikizoku or Watami) — they have picture menus or English menus, clear prices, and staff used to tourists. As for yokocho like Golden Gai, some of the tiny bars charge a higher-than-usual seat charge and a few only serve regulars — read the sign out front before you go in.
8 Must-Order Dishes

Izakaya Small PlatesYou Can't Go Wrong With

An izakaya menu runs on forever, but start with these 8 dishes and you won't be disappointed — they're the classics almost every place has, they go beautifully with beer, and they're built to be ordered and shared around the whole table.

🍢
🔥 Charcoal-grilled1
Yakitori
Yakitori · grilled chicken skewers

The star of the izakaya — bite-size chicken threaded onto skewers and grilled over charcoal, brushed with a sweet-savoury tare sauce or simply salted (shio). There are plenty of cuts to choose from, from thigh (momo) and crispy skin (kawa) to liver (reba). Order a few skewers, pair with a cold beer, and you've got the legendary combo.

🍶Where to eat it: every izakaya · dedicated yakitori-ya · Omoide Yokocho, Tokyo
💴Rough price: ~120–250 yen per skewer (check the latest at the venue)
Tokyo Food Guide →
🍗
🍗 Fried2
Karaage
Karaage · fried chicken

Japanese-style fried chicken marinated in soy sauce, ginger, and garlic, then coated and fried until crisp outside and juicy within. A squeeze of lemon before you bite makes it even better. It's the dish that keeps kids and anyone who skips raw food happy, and it usually arrives as a big plate to share. Order it with a highball — that's the classic.

🍶Where to eat it: every izakaya · a dish almost every place has
💴Rough price: ~500–700 yen per plate
What to Eat in Japan →
🫛
🌱 Snack plate3
Edamame
Edamame · salted boiled soybeans

Japanese soybeans boiled and sprinkled with salt — pop the beans straight into your mouth and keep going. It's the first thing Japanese diners tend to order while they decide on the rest of the menu, and it goes brilliantly with beer. Cheap, easy to order, on practically every menu — the dish a first-timer can point at without a second thought.

🍶Where to eat it: every izakaya · sometimes served as the otoshi
💴Rough price: ~300–450 yen per plate
What to Eat in Japan →
🥟
🥟 Pan-fried4
Gyoza
Gyoza · pan-fried dumplings

Dumplings filled with minced pork, cabbage, and garlic, crisped on the bottom while staying soft on top (yaki-gyoza), dipped in a mix of vinegar, soy sauce, and rayu chilli oil. A little plate that always disappears fast when shared, and it works as well with beer as it does with rice.

🍶Where to eat it: general izakaya · dedicated gyoza shops
💴Rough price: ~350–550 yen per plate (6 pieces)
Japanese Chain Restaurants →
🐟
🐟 Raw5
Sashimi
Sashimi · raw fish

Freshly sliced raw fish, dipped in a touch of soy sauce with wasabi. Many izakaya offer an assorted platter (moriawase) so you can taste several kinds on one plate. At coastal spots or the yatai of Fukuoka the fish is especially fresh. If you don't eat raw, just tell the staff — there's plenty else on the menu.

🍶Where to eat it: coastal izakaya · Fukuoka yatai · fish-focused spots
💴Rough price: ~700–1,500 yen per assorted plate
Fukuoka Food Guide →
🍲
🍲 Warm dish6
Agedashi Tofu
Agedashi Tofu · fried tofu in dashi

Soft tofu lightly coated and fried for a thin crust, then sat in a warm dashi broth and topped with spring onion, grated ginger, and bonito flakes. The inside stays silky and soft — a light dish that cuts through all the fried and grilled plates, and one that keeps non-meat-eaters happy and full.

🍶Where to eat it: general izakaya · a favourite for the veggie-leaning
💴Rough price: ~400–600 yen per plate
What to Eat in Japan →
Takoyaki — grilled octopus batter balls topped with mayonnaise and bonito flakes, picked up with chopsticks 🐙 Osaka7
Takoyaki
Takoyaki · octopus batter balls

Round balls of batter with octopus inside, grilled in a dimpled pan, then topped with sauce, mayonnaise, and bonito flakes that flutter in the heat — crisp outside, almost molten within. You'll find them often in Osaka-area izakaya. Eat them hot (mind your mouth!) — a fun dish that gets everyone smiling when it's shared.

🍶Where to eat it: Osaka izakaya · Dotonbori · roadside stalls
💴Rough price: ~500–700 yen (6–8 balls)
Osaka Food Guide →
Okonomiyaki — a savoury pancake on a teppan griddle topped with sauce, mayonnaise and bonito flakes 🥞 Osaka8
Okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki · savoury pancake

A savoury pancake of cabbage-laced batter with pork, prawn, or cheese to taste, grilled on a teppan and finished with a thick sauce, mayonnaise, and bonito flakes. At some places you grill it yourself at the table, which is good fun. It's a filling dish that's just right ordered and cut up to share at the end of the meal.

🍶Where to eat it: izakaya / dedicated spots in Osaka and Hiroshima
💴Rough price: ~800–1,200 yen per plate
Osaka Food Guide →
One Night at an Izakaya

Your First VisitStep by Step, From the Door to the Bill

No need to stress about the order of things — follow these 6 steps and you'll look like a regular, from telling them your group size at the door to walking up to pay at the counter.

STEP 1
Walk In, Say Your Numbers

As you enter, a server will greet you — just say how many you are. Holding up fingers works, or say "futari" (2 people) or "sannin" (3 people). They'll seat you at a table or the counter. Popular spots in the evening may mean a queue or booking ahead.

STEP 2
Receive Your Otoshi (the charged small dish)

As soon as you sit, an otoshi often arrives — a small dish you didn't order, maybe beans, tofu, or pickles. This is the normal table/seating charge, ~300–700 yen per person, not a scam — a custom at most izakaya (called tsukidashi in Kansai). Tuck in.

STEP 3
Order Drinks First

The custom is that drinks always come first. The whole table usually kicks off with the legendary line "toriaezu nama" (a draft beer to start) so everyone can clink a kampai together. Not drinking? Order oolong tea or a soft drink, then move on to the food menu.

STEP 4
Order Small Plates to Share

No need to order everything at once. Order 2–3 dishes at a time into the middle of the table and share, then order more in rounds as they go. Ordering a variety and tasting a little of each is the most fun — and the best value — way to do it.

STEP 5
Go for Nomihodai If You Like

Nomihodai = time-limited all-you-can-drink (usually 90–120 minutes, around 1,500–3,000 yen per person · check the latest at the venue). Worth it if you plan to drink several glasses. The conditions: everyone takes the same package, and last orders are often 20–30 minutes before time is up.

STEP 6
Call a Server · Pay at the Counter

Want more? Call out "sumimasen" (excuse me). When you're ready to leave, you mostly pay at the counter by the entrance, not at the table; some places leave the bill on the table for you to carry over. No tipping, and keep cash handy because many small spots don't take cards.

Tips + Etiquette

6 Things That Help YouDrink Like a Local, Not a Tourist

It's not so strict that a slip gets you stared at, but knowing these makes the evening flow and helps you feel part of the group — especially the custom of pouring for one another, which Japanese diners treat as a kindness.

🍵
Otoshi Is Normal Across Japan
The unordered small dish charged at ~300–700 yen is the normal table charge, not a trick. Most sit-down izakaya have it — don't be surprised by the bill.
🍶
Pour for Others, Not Yourself
The custom is to keep your tablemates' glasses topped up and they'll fill yours — it's a kindness. See an empty glass nearby, pick up the bottle and pour.
🥂
Kampai Before the First Sip
Wait until everyone's drink has arrived, then clink together with a "kampai!" before you sip. Don't drink alone ahead of the others.
🍺
Nomihodai Pays Off When You Drink a Lot
If you plan on several glasses, nomihodai is better value; for just 1–2, ordering by the glass is cheaper. Judge it by your group.
🚫
No Tipping Needed
Japan has no tipping culture — just pay the bill. Leaving a tip may confuse staff, who might chase after you to return it.
💴
Keep Cash on You
Many small alley bars, yatai, and tachinomi take cash only. Don't get so lost in the moment that you forget whether you have enough to pay.
Map

Japan's Legendary Drinking Alleyson One Map

Fancy drinking somewhere with a bit of atmosphere? Try wandering a yokocho (drinking alley) — dozens of tiny bars lined up where you can move from one to the next all night. These are the 4 districts drinkers around the world have their eye on.

Phrases to Carry

6 Easy Japanese PhrasesYou'll Actually Use at an Izakaya

You don't need full sentences — these short words alone will see you through the night, and staff will understand. For most of the menu you can just point at a picture or a sign.

🍺
"Toriaezu nama"
"A draft beer to start" — the legendary opening line that orders a first draft beer for the whole table.
🙋
"Sumimasen"
"Excuse me" — use it to call a server when you want to order more. Say it loud enough to be heard and raise your hand.
🥂
"Kampai!"
"Cheers!" — said while raising and clinking glasses, always before the first sip.
📋
"Osusume wa?"
"What do you recommend?" — ask for the house special and you'll get the dish the place does best.
🧾
"O-kaikei kudasai"
"The bill, please" — say it when you're ready to leave, or make a cross (×) with your hands and staff will get it.
🚯
"Nama mono wa chotto…"
Saying you don't eat raw food — or just point to the fried/grilled dishes instead. Izakaya have plenty of cooked plates, so no worries.
Related Guides

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🍱

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Japan Food Guide →
🍜

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The 6 broth styles, each city's regional ramen, and how to order at the ticket machine without getting lost.

Ramen Guide →
🍣

Sushi Guide

Types of sushi, how to eat it the proper way, and which kind of restaurant to choose — from conveyor belt to chef's counter.

Sushi Guide →
🗼

Tokyo Food Guide

Izakaya, the Omoide Yokocho drinking alley, signature bites, and the best eating districts in the Tokyo metropolis.

Tokyo Food Guide →
🐙

Osaka Food Guide

The street-food capital — takoyaki, okonomiyaki, Dotonbori, and the izakaya of the Kansai region.

Osaka Food Guide →
🏮

Fukuoka Food Guide

The yatai capital — riverside stalls at Nakasu/Tenjin, Hakata ramen, and the food of Kyushu.

Fukuoka Food Guide →
Frequently Asked Questions

Questions Aboutthe Izakaya

What is otoshi — is it a scam?
Otoshi (お通し), or tsukidashi in the Kansai region, is the small dish a restaurant brings out with your first drink even though you didn't order it, charged at around 300–700 yen per person. It's not a scam — it's a table/seating charge that most izakaya apply as standard, similar to a cover charge in Europe. It's served as something to nibble while you wait for your food, and it confirms the kitchen has taken your order. Many standing bars (tachinomi) have no otoshi or charge very little.
How do you order at an izakaya — do you order everything at once?
The custom is to order drinks first (say toriaezu nama = a draft beer to start), then order small dishes a few (2–3) at a time to share around the whole table. You don't order everything at once. When you want more, call a server with sumimasen and order in rounds. Izakaya dishes are designed to be shared, so ordering a variety and tasting a little of each is the most fun way to do it.
Is nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) worth it?
Nomihodai is a time-limited all-you-can-drink package, usually 90–120 minutes, costing around 1,500–3,000 yen per person (check the current price at the venue). It's worth it if you plan to drink several glasses, but if you'll only have 1–2 it's cheaper to order by the glass. Common conditions are that everyone at the table must take the same package, last orders are often 20–30 minutes before time is up, and some premium spirits or beers may cost extra.
What are the must-order izakaya dishes?
The popular dishes almost every place has are yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), karaage (fried chicken), edamame (salted boiled soybeans, perfect with beer), gyoza, sashimi, and agedashi tofu (fried tofu in dashi broth). Takoyaki and okonomiyaki turn up often in Osaka-area izakaya. Ordering several dishes to share is the cheapest way to eat.
How many types of Japanese drinking spots are there, and how do they differ?
There are four main types: izakaya (full sit-down eat-and-drink venues with tables/counters), yatai (roadside stalls, most famous in Fukuoka around Nakasu/Tenjin), tachinomi (cheap standing bars, quick in and out), and yokocho (alleys packed with dozens of tiny bars, such as Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai in Shinjuku). Each has a different atmosphere and price.
Do you tip at an izakaya, and how do you pay?
Japan has no tipping culture — you never need to tip. As for paying, you mostly pay at the counter on your way out (not at the table); some places leave the bill on the table for you to carry to the front. Many small alley bars and stalls take cash only, so it's wise to carry cash just in case.
Ready to Hit the Izakaya?

Now You Know How to Work a Japanese Pub
Go Hunt Down Some Food Next

Tokyo is the biggest playground for izakaya and drinking alleys — open the Tokyo Food Guide for eating districts like Omoide Yokocho and the city's signature bites, or start lining up a place to stay near the food districts.

📖 Tokyo Food Guide 🏨 Find a Place to Stay in Tokyo →
🔴 Find a Place to Stay in Tokyo Tokyo Food Guide