Suginoi Hotel — Hillside Onsen Resort with Tanayu 5-Tier Baths over Beppu Bay
Picture this — soaking in a tiered open-air onsen 250 metres above the city, hot spring water cascading down five levels like terraced rice paddies, with a 180-degree panorama of Beppu Bay stretching out before you. That is the Tanayu, Suginoi Hotel's signature bath, and the one thing every single guest mentions on the way home. A score of 8.9/10 from 2,460 Booking.com reviews tells you this place has earned its reputation on more than scenery alone.
To be direct — among Beppu's many onsen hotels, Suginoi Hotel is the one that makes the most sense if you want everything in one place without compromise. Perched on the hillside of Kankaiji, one of Beppu's eight famous hot spring districts, the resort spans 587 rooms across three buildings: the flagship Sora Kan (336 rooms, opened 2023) with the rooftop Sorayu onsen terrace; the family-friendly Niji Kan (155 rooms) with bright, nature-themed decor; and the freshest addition, Hoshi Kan (300 rooms, opened January 2025), designed in a modern Japanese aesthetic with ocean-view rooms. The resort is large enough to spend two full days without stepping foot outside.
One guest recalls the Tanayu as "the most beautiful onsen they have ever seen anywhere in the world. Soaking in those tiered baths with Beppu Bay spread out below at night — nothing else comes close. The resort is big, but somehow the onsen area still feels peaceful."
Tanayu is what every guest talks about. The bath complex is built across five descending tiers, modelled on traditional Japanese terraced rice fields, with a mix of indoor, semi-open, and three fully open-air pools. There is also a Low Ryu sauna with aromatic water and atmospheric lighting, and a Sound Bath that plays a narrated story about Beppu's geothermal geology while you soak. The view from the topmost tiers takes in the full sweep of Beppu Bay — on clear days guests report being able to see Cape Sadamisaki in Shikoku across the water. Whether you visit at dawn or after dark when the city lights reflect off the surface, the effect is the same: you get in and you simply do not want to come out.
Beyond Tanayu, the resort offers the Aqua Garden — a swimsuit-friendly outdoor hot spring pool with programmed fountain displays, light sequences and sound effects, designed for families and couples who want a more playful onsen experience. Note that Aqua Garden runs seasonally (generally July through September), not year-round. Guests staying in Sora Kan also have access to the Sorayu rooftop onsen at 250 metres above sea level — a separate open-air bath with a 360-degree sky view that rewards early risers with clear-day sunrises over the Bay.
The resort's dining is the second thing guests talk about most. Five restaurants cover a wide range — Terrace & Dining SORA for a Western-style morning buffet, Japanese Dining Hoshi for Japanese set meals, World Dining Ceada Palace for Western and Chinese buffet dinners, Japanese Cuisine SAI for kaiseki, and the Pronto café bar for light meals and drinks. The breakfast and dinner buffets draw consistently strong praise for sheer variety: fresh seafood from Beppu Bay, local Oita specialties, an extensive dessert spread. A note of honesty: a number of reviews flag that cooking quality during the busiest periods (Friday and Saturday evenings, national holidays) can be uneven across such a large spread — not a dealbreaker, but worth knowing.
The activities list is what sets this resort apart from a typical onsen hotel. Under one roof you have eight-lane bowling alley, game arcade, karaoke rooms, Gold's Gym, Spa The Cedar, projection mapping shows in the evenings, a convenience store, and a gift shop stocked with Oita prefectural products. Niji Kan was specifically designed with families in mind — the vivid colour scheme and layout cater to guests travelling with children. Those rooms are the smallest in the resort (21 sqm) and do not have a dining room in the building, so families taking a meal plan should factor in the walk across to Suginoi Palace.
A few honest notes before you decide. Suginoi Hotel sits well away from central Beppu and the Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour) hot springs — the free shuttle runs to JR Beppu Station roughly every 30 to 60 minutes, and at peak check-out times delays have been reported. If exploring the Hells and Kannawa on foot is a priority, a hotel in that district will suit you better. Also worth noting: the Aqua Garden is seasonal — confirm dates on the hotel website before booking if it is the reason for your visit. To put it plainly: Suginoi Hotel delivers exceptional value for an onsen resort of this scale. The Tanayu baths are genuinely spectacular, the buffet is one of Beppu's best, and the all-in-one facilities make it easy to stay planted for two or three nights without any restlessness.
Summary from Booking & Agoda
- ✓ Tanayu 5-tier baths overlooking Beppu Bay — guests describe it as the most beautiful onsen they have ever visited
- ✓ Exceptional buffet variety with fresh local seafood and Oita specialties at every meal
- ✓ All-in-one facilities: bowling, arcade, karaoke, Gold's Gym, spa — no need to leave the resort
- ✓ Friendly staff and complimentary shuttle service to JR Beppu Station
- ! Far from central Beppu and the Jigoku Meguri Hell Tour — requires shuttle or taxi to reach main sights
- ! Shuttle bus runs on a fixed schedule; delays reported at busy check-out periods
- ! Niji Kan rooms are small (21 sqm) and have no on-site dining in their building
- ✓ Sorayu rooftop onsen on Sora Kan — 250 metres up, unobstructed Beppu Bay panorama all day
- ✓ Hoshi Kan opened January 2025 with brand-new rooms in a modern Japanese design
- ✓ Aqua Garden fountain show onsen — great for families and couples who want a different onsen experience
- ✓ Scale of activities is remarkable: bowling, arcade, karaoke and gym all under one roof
- ! Aqua Garden is only open in summer — confirm dates before booking if it is a priority
- ! Peak periods (Friday evenings, national holidays) make the onsen and buffet noticeably crowded
- ! Not the right choice if you want to explore Kannawa and the Hells on foot
- 💡If exploring Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour) and Kannawa is your main goal — Suginoi Hotel is on the opposite hillside and requires a shuttle or taxi each time. Consider a hotel in the Kannawa district if walking access to the Hells is a priority for your trip.
- 💡If the Aqua Garden is a key reason for your visit — always check the opening schedule on the hotel website before booking. The outdoor hot spring pool runs seasonally (approximately July–September) and the fountain show has set performance times.
- 💡If you are a couple or small family wanting more room space — Niji Kan has the lowest rates but the smallest rooms (21 sqm) and no in-building restaurant. Sora Kan or Hoshi Kan give noticeably more space and better views for a moderate price step up.